Sunday, April 18, 2021

April 18, 2021 - Cart-man.

It's almost impossible to not notice the big boulder next to the path that leads to "Coup de Tonnerre" in Rocher du Télégraphe. It definitely didn't go unnoticed back in 2015, when I went climbing there for the first time. Besides a 6A, "Vague à l'Âme, nothing was opened on it yet though, or at least not published, but that big overhang with beautiful typical Bleau slopers really attracted me. It wasn't very long after, that Guillaume Joubert opened the beautiful "Télex" and "Télex (gauche)" on it, 7C+ and 7B+ respectively.
During the past five years, I have been trying it briefly several times, but gave up quickly as I could never do more than two moves. That starting hold for the right hand is a really bad sloper and you have to keep using it from the start until catching the high slopers left hand. Yesterday morning, I decided to give "Télex" another chance and took both the Mondo and the Drop Zone pads to cover for me. I took the time to clean the rarely repeated boulder from pollen and some moss before checking how far I would get.
It was quite a long session, but as there was a continuous slow but steady progress, I kept trying until was too tired. It took a lot of trying, but I had finally found a method to make my way to the high slopers on the edge of the overhang on nearly every attempt. I was determined to come back tomorrow, being today.

I was eager to go back "Télex" this morning, but decided to focus completely on the easier left exit, "Télex (gauche)" first. There were a few attempts yesterday that could have been successful, but doubt about which exit to try at that moment, even only for a second, was enough to distract me and make mistakes.
Having constant lower back problems, carrying both crashpads there and back yesterday made it substantially worse, so I decided to give it a try using a small pliable cart. As long as the path is wide and flat, as is the case when coming from La Feuillardière, it was even easier than I expected. Smaller paths going up and down in all directions are impossible though, but as I didn't have to take a lot of those, I simply walked them twice and took my time, saving my back.
I stretched, warmed up, and topped "Télex (gacuhe)" alreay on my second attempt. The method was still in my body and as I had decided beforehand which exit to go for, I didn't hesitate and finished it.

"Télex" itself, will have to wait for when I'm there with a spotter. Even though I can get my left heel up real high, I always chickened out and didn't even dare to start with the mantle up.

Fontainebleau - Rocher du Télégraphe - Télex (gauche) 7B+

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