Friday, April 28, 2017

April 28, 2017 - Don't push the button!

Last Sunday I had found a method to climb "Isatix (assis)" but with the bad sweaty skin that I had that day, it was impossible to climb the whole thing and I had to leave it behind.
Now that my skin was fine, I went back, but with yet another method in mind.
I had seen on pictures that after taking the big crimp on the right at the start, that they were standing on a small foothold just a bit further where I usually put a toehook, and went from there with the left hand straight to the very high small crimp above their heads.

It took a while before I made it.
At first I even thought that the small crimp above my head was way too far away. I barely came close on my first tries.
I doubted about what method to continue trying with, but decided to steal the one that I saw on the pictures and pushed on.

Suddenly, my fingertips reached just high enough until I had the small crimp left hand, I aimed for the sharp crimp right hand, got it, placed my feet good and grabbed the right arete.
I had just done "Isatix (droite assis)", but unfortunately, due to pressing some wrong buttons, I deleted the video from my camera.
I didn't really bother, because I still had "Isatix (assis)" to do.

Basically it's the same climb, but instead of using the arete, you have to do a scary dyno from the two small crimps to a good hold up and slightly left. Which is more or less adding another small crux to it.
From the standstart I gave both versions the same grade on bleau.info 7A, because I felt that besides the fear factor, the dyno didn't add much difficulty.
From the sitstart, however, I gave both problems 7A+ and 7B respectively. Preparing for the dyno on those small crimps felt quite a bit harder after those couple of extra moves.
Great lines in any case and a beautiful boulder!

Fontainebleau - Cuvier Bellevue - Isatix (assis) 7B+




Still on my way home, but closer to it, I stopped at Bois Rond Auberge to check out the new boulder that had been published yesterday.
The boulder is quite easy to find if you follow the topo that can be found on bleau.info, but it's good to know that it can be found the top of a small hill.

I'm not sure if this has been climbed correctly, but there were not many other options.
I did follow the line pictured on bleau.info, but after flashing it, it felt too easy in a way.
Not really clear this one.
There is another 7A(6C+) that goes more to the left over the prow, but I didn't dare to try it as it was way too exposed with shattered small boulders right underneath it.

Fontainebleau - Bois Rond Auberge - La Super Couille de Droite 7A+(7A)


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