This left me with only two and half hours of time and Long Boyau is quite a walk, but I wanted to avoid the crowds.
I had never climbed in Long Boyau before, but the boulders are located along the blue path n°8 and as I have walked that path already a couple of times, I knew where the scattered boulders more or less were.
When I started my drive towards Belgium it was 12h10 but I had made a beautiful walk and climbed some nice problems along the way.
The first problem I tried was "Circulez, y'a Rien à Boire", which was a very short warmup because without any trouble I was able to flash it.
This felt more like a 6C. To be sure I didn't make any error, I checked a video online but had to conclude that it was correct.
** EDIT ** It turned out to be "Circulez, y'a Rien à Boire (direct)" which is indeed 6C. ** EDIT **
Fontainebleau - Long Boyau - Circulez, y'a Rien à Boire (direct) 6C
At barely 30m from there, I started trying "Le Trou de Balle", which is an obvious name for the problem. The small pocket looks exactly like a bullet hole.
I needed some more time for it but once the first move was executed correctly, I topped it.
I needed some more time for it but once the first move was executed correctly, I topped it.
Fontainebleau - Long Boyau - Le Trou de Balle 7A
Having done "Le Trou de Balle", I continued my way towards the blue path up on the hill and took a minute to enjoy the view.
The beautiful view on the top of Long Boyau.
I definitely wanted to try "Le Mérou" which was a couple of hundred meters further along the blue path, but on my way I was able to quickly pick up an ascent of "Ric et Rac".
Fontainebleau - Long Boyau - Ric et Rac 6C+(7A)
"Le Mérou" looks beautiful and climbs beautiful. It simply IS beautiful!!
As soon as you have the arete right hand, every move becomes sketchy until the end.
The left heelhook feels like it can let go any second and the tiny vertical crimp high up left requires very subtle movement.
I almost came out on the last move, but thanks to quick reflexes made it through.
Too bad that I was out of time to try the right version "Le Mérou (droite)".
As soon as you have the arete right hand, every move becomes sketchy until the end.
The left heelhook feels like it can let go any second and the tiny vertical crimp high up left requires very subtle movement.
I almost came out on the last move, but thanks to quick reflexes made it through.
Too bad that I was out of time to try the right version "Le Mérou (droite)".
Fontainebleau - Long Boyau - Le Mérou 7A+
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