It's a big boulder brushed by Jason Kester and on which he has opened several problems so far.
I had seen the boulder before from far when coming down the path from "52 Gérard", but had never bothered to look at it from close by. Jason did, and it seemed worth it!
When I approached the boulder, I realised where Jason had taken his inspiration for some of the problem's names. Quite a big piece of the forest next to the boulder has been completely cut down, making the boulder obviously visible now.
Jason and his wife her Helen were on their way from their house in Arbonne la Forêt to join me and by the time they and their two kids arrived, I had already done "Lumberjack" and "Clearcut".
I started with "Lumberjack", which I did on my second attempt and found it maybe a bit soft for the grade, but that will probably be thanks to my big reach.
Very nice line either way!
Fontainebleau - Franchard Ermitage - Lumberjack 7A
"Clearcut" needed some more tries.
My body needed to get used to the body position out of which you have to make the jump.
Jumping both handed seems to be the best way.
Very cool dyno!
My body needed to get used to the body position out of which you have to make the jump.
Jumping both handed seems to be the best way.
Very cool dyno!
Fontainebleau - Franchard Ermitage - Clearcut 7B
I took a short break and in the meantime, Jason, Helen and their boys arrived too.
It was nice to meet Jason who looked obviously proud showing this fine boulder in which he had spent so much time cleaning it.
While he was showing "Gorilla Fish" to Helen, I managed to add a sitstart to "Clearcut", making it feel more like a real 7B. I had the impression that the standstart was a somewhat soft 7B, but then again, it fits my style.
It was nice to meet Jason who looked obviously proud showing this fine boulder in which he had spent so much time cleaning it.
While he was showing "Gorilla Fish" to Helen, I managed to add a sitstart to "Clearcut", making it feel more like a real 7B. I had the impression that the standstart was a somewhat soft 7B, but then again, it fits my style.
Fontainebleau - Franchard Ermitage - Clearcut (assis) 7B
Jason showed me "Gorilla Fish" too and I moved to the backside of the boulder to try it.
Coming from under the roof to the edge is a bit morpho, but I managed to find my way through.
This is a beautiful line!
Coming from under the roof to the edge is a bit morpho, but I managed to find my way through.
This is a beautiful line!
Fontainebleau - Franchard Ermitage - Gorilla Fish 7A
Jason was still able to add an extension to "Gorilla Fish" by traversing past the nose, all the way up to the next angle of the boulder and top out just behind it.
Probably it will be around 7A+ and should be published sooner or later.
I thanked for it, because it was just too long, but I did manage to pull off a first ascent of a direct exit version of "Gorilla Fish".
Helen also topped the direct exit from a crouching start at the lip of the roof. She's small and needs to work a totally different and much harder method to be able to come out of the roof.
She'll probably find her way through one time soon.
"Gorilla Fish (direct)" is around the same grade as the original.
Probably it will be around 7A+ and should be published sooner or later.
I thanked for it, because it was just too long, but I did manage to pull off a first ascent of a direct exit version of "Gorilla Fish".
Helen also topped the direct exit from a crouching start at the lip of the roof. She's small and needs to work a totally different and much harder method to be able to come out of the roof.
She'll probably find her way through one time soon.
"Gorilla Fish (direct)" is around the same grade as the original.
Fontainebleau - Franchard Ermitage - Gorilla Fish (direct) 7A
There's still an unopened project left to do.
It's possible and I'm close, but I need better conditions and better skin.
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