April 27, 2017 - Pousse Pouce Meow.

I was away for work a couple of days, which gave my skin and body some time to physically recover.
This evening after diner, I just had to do some climbing and went straight to my little project in La Ségognole.
It's a variation on some existing lines on the boulder of "Avoine", but according to me definitely worth the go for it.

The first times I tried it was about two years ago, not long after my operation.
I was still very weak then and couldn't hold on to the bad slopey crimp right hand.
About a year later I tried it again a few times and I was able to hold on to the crimp, but there was no way that I could move away out of that position.
Since then, I had forgotten about it. Until last week when I tried it again after almost a year.
That time I was able to move further but couldn't hold on to the crimp at the crucial moment when going for the left slopey arete.
I kept on slipping off.

The very bad slopey crimp right hand.

Today, I had some extra skin and my body was rested, so I was hopeful to at least be able to hold on to the left arete without slipping off the crimp.

The first tries were not bad, but again that crimp wouldn't let me do what I wanted to.

For quite a while I mainly focussed on the move to the left arete, until suddenly, after slightly changing my method, I had figured it out.

Now it was only a matter of holding the crimp long enough to stop my mild swing to the left and stabilise my position.

The name comes from "pousse", which is French for "push" and "pouce", which is French for "thumb", followed by "meow", the sound of a pussy cat.

You really need to push hard with your thumb on that bad slopey crimp to be able to hold it.

Fontainebleau - La Ségognole - Pousse Pouce Meow 7A+(7B)