There are WIFI problems in the hotel and no coverage in my room, even my phone doesn't even capture 3G there.
So I'm sitting in the lobby where I can have WIFI.
I had to travel South today for work, but first I stopped at Roche aux Oiseaux to try "L'Architecte Trismègiste", the recently opened 7C by Grégoire Thibault. (Update - it has just now been adjusted to 7B on bleau.info)
Pictures had revealed that someone cut down the 1m high tree stump right under the line. This makes the problem barely expo anymore.
According to me, it must have played a big role, preventing you doing the moves relaxed.
It will certainly still be downgraded, I flashed it quite easily.
Saying soft 7B is still generous.
Fontainebleau - Roche aux Oiseaux - L'Architecte Trismégiste 7C
That was done quickly, so I still had some time for something else.
"Alea Jacta Est", "The die is cast", was a logical option, even though I hadn't planned on it at all.
The conditions were perfect, 17°C, dry air, cold sandstone, and I felt motivated.
I already spent several short sessions on it, just trying to stick that first superhard move, and the more I tried, the more my back started to hurt.
The very first time that I tried it, a couple of years ago, the first move seemed impossible to make.
Today it was like "veni, vidi, vici".
The first try wasn't too bad and on my second try I felt the crimp. Almost statically.
Now it was just a matter of taking it on my deadpoint and holding on.
I had it quicker than expected.
Very hard first move, afterwards it's a matter of not making a stupid mistake.
Happy about this one!
"Alea Jacta Est", "The die is cast", was a logical option, even though I hadn't planned on it at all.
The conditions were perfect, 17°C, dry air, cold sandstone, and I felt motivated.
I already spent several short sessions on it, just trying to stick that first superhard move, and the more I tried, the more my back started to hurt.
The very first time that I tried it, a couple of years ago, the first move seemed impossible to make.
Today it was like "veni, vidi, vici".
The first try wasn't too bad and on my second try I felt the crimp. Almost statically.
Now it was just a matter of taking it on my deadpoint and holding on.
I had it quicker than expected.
Very hard first move, afterwards it's a matter of not making a stupid mistake.
Happy about this one!
Fontainebleau - Roche aux Oiseaux - Alea Jacta Est 7C
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