It didn't really matter, because I was going to the Mont Blanc area just behind the classical area of Eléphant. It's a small, almost hidden, sector with only a handful of boulders, but mostly in the open and quick drying.
The name comes from a big dune-like hill nearby. Being covered with white sand makes it look like a 'Mont Blanc'.
Definitely worth the detour when you're in the area.
About a year before the sector was published, Neil (Hart) had already showed it to me, so I knew my what to look for.
The boulders were all dry but not in the best conditions, as one would expect after a foggy night.
It was cold so I wanted to start immediately.
I wanted to start with "L'Envolée Tibétaine" to warm up my cold hands and fingers.
A jumpstart to a big crimp, take a tiny crimp right hand, heelhook, take the sidepull and mantle up.
It all connected and the send went on my flash attempt. I did see a video of it earlier this morning.
Fontainebleau - Mont Blanc - L'Envolée Tibétaine 7A+
The crimps and the sidepull were sharp though and the pain in my cold fingertips still lingered on for a few minutes.
You also really have to trust the left foot when getting up after the mantle. Scary topout somehow.
As soon as my hands were getting warmer again, the pain faded and I started trying the sitstart.
The sitstart doesn't add that much difficulty to it, but it does add some very nice moves.
It's much nicer than the jumpstart and actually also more logical.
I really enjoyed climbing this!
You also really have to trust the left foot when getting up after the mantle. Scary topout somehow.
As soon as my hands were getting warmer again, the pain faded and I started trying the sitstart.
The sitstart doesn't add that much difficulty to it, but it does add some very nice moves.
It's much nicer than the jumpstart and actually also more logical.
I really enjoyed climbing this!
Fontainebleau - Mont Blanc - L'Envolée Tibétaine (assis) 7A+(7B)
The central boulder of the sector, is the one with "Le Homard / Bouddha Assis". An obvious prow of which the sitstart is 7B.
I had tried the standstart back in the day with Neil, but couldn't do it. Now I didn't get any further, so I quickly gave up on this one because I wanted to try the 7A+ on the other side of the boulder anyway.
I had looked at it with Neil, but there was nothing published and we couldn't really figure out where to start and where to end. It's also facing North, so probably it was wet.
Here also I had seen a video of it now, but as it's really morpho to go sideways and then up, I had to come up with my own method to be able to reach the right arete.
Second crux is holding on long enough to the very high slopey pocket and reaching for the better sidepull on the right.
In the end the topout requires some commitment.
Scary topout, but everything that comes before it makes it all worth it. I gave this 5 stars on bleau.info.
Felt more like a 7B for me though, probably due to the morpho part to it.
I had tried the standstart back in the day with Neil, but couldn't do it. Now I didn't get any further, so I quickly gave up on this one because I wanted to try the 7A+ on the other side of the boulder anyway.
I had looked at it with Neil, but there was nothing published and we couldn't really figure out where to start and where to end. It's also facing North, so probably it was wet.
Here also I had seen a video of it now, but as it's really morpho to go sideways and then up, I had to come up with my own method to be able to reach the right arete.
Second crux is holding on long enough to the very high slopey pocket and reaching for the better sidepull on the right.
In the end the topout requires some commitment.
Scary topout, but everything that comes before it makes it all worth it. I gave this 5 stars on bleau.info.
Felt more like a 7B for me though, probably due to the morpho part to it.
Fontainebleau - Mont Blanc - La Gaie Pierre 7A+
There are still a few problems that I want to try there, but I decided to home and work a bit in the garden and in the house.
On my way back to the car, I had to pass by the Eléphant area and I quickly stopped at "Sein de Glace".
Last week I briefly tried it with Pieter, but it was time to leave and we were all tired.
Only a couple of I tries now before it was done, but I had to be focussed until I had the jug high up.
It ain't over until it's over.
On my way back to the car, I had to pass by the Eléphant area and I quickly stopped at "Sein de Glace".
Last week I briefly tried it with Pieter, but it was time to leave and we were all tired.
Only a couple of I tries now before it was done, but I had to be focussed until I had the jug high up.
It ain't over until it's over.
Fontainebleau - Eléphant - Sein de Glace 7A
Something else I quickly wanted to look at, was the recently opened dyno "Goodbye Mary Loup".
It's a high scary backward all-points-off dyno towards the big pocket in the roof of 31 black.
I doubted, but decided to try quickly anyway.
It took me a couple of tries before I dared to really jump and let go of my body, but as soon as I was able to reach the jug, I turned on the camera.
I jumped hard, grabbed the pocket, took a big expected swing, but then I realised that something was not good and had to let go.
It's a high scary backward all-points-off dyno towards the big pocket in the roof of 31 black.
I doubted, but decided to try quickly anyway.
It took me a couple of tries before I dared to really jump and let go of my body, but as soon as I was able to reach the jug, I turned on the camera.
I jumped hard, grabbed the pocket, took a big expected swing, but then I realised that something was not good and had to let go.
The big swing had almost ripped my whole arm off!!
No, but it did take a big chunk of my skin though. I could have taped it, but I was on my way back to car anyway, so I went home.
No, but it did take a big chunk of my skin though. I could have taped it, but I was on my way back to car anyway, so I went home.
How about a BBQ ?
Nice boulder problem! Sorry for your skin/finger. Hope you gonna try again! :)
ReplyDeleteBy the way, very cool blogspot!