Rocher Fin is not my favourite area. Not only because it's such a long walk, but I also don't like walking around in all that sand in the mean area.
With a thick fog like this, however, Rocher Fin probably was going to be my best chance to find some dry sandstone.
I didn't really have a plan, but I set my priority on trying "Matière et Mémoire", a small roof with a big morpho move. The grade 7B(7A) actually depends on your height.
On my lasts visits I had a look at it, but thought it would be too morpho, but a couple of days ago, I saw on a video that you can use the starting pocket as a footlock.
I wanted to try this beta and see where I would end up.
After a long walk, I was happily surprised that indeed most boulders were dry, despite the fog that still hung low between the trees.
The conditions were not to say good, but it was possible to climb.
I walked straight to "Matière et Mémoire", checked the status of the holds, opened the crashpad, pressed record and sent it on my second attempt.
It's a beautiful move, locking the foot so tight that you can actually let go of both hands, making it just possible to do the morpho move.
Great, fun little problem. Maybe underestimated.
Fontainebleau - Rocher Fin - Matière et Mémoire 7B(7A)
That was done much faster than I expected, and I still had plenty of time left, but no real plan anymore.
Than "Bull Dog" came to my mind.
I had tried this problem on each visit, but as I only come here when the other areas are most likely wet, I had never been able to try it in good conditions, so was never able to finish it.
The slopers on the left arete felt slippery, but I was able to pull it off quite fast. Maybe on my third try for this session.
It's a hard, physical problem and especially the last move involves some hard pulling on the biceps.
I only made it with my fingertips, but was able to hold on just long enough to be able to match my second hand.
Than "Bull Dog" came to my mind.
I had tried this problem on each visit, but as I only come here when the other areas are most likely wet, I had never been able to try it in good conditions, so was never able to finish it.
The slopers on the left arete felt slippery, but I was able to pull it off quite fast. Maybe on my third try for this session.
It's a hard, physical problem and especially the last move involves some hard pulling on the biceps.
I only made it with my fingertips, but was able to hold on just long enough to be able to match my second hand.
Fontainebleau - Rocher Fin - Bull Dog 7A+
I got close to doing the sistart too, but each time lacked the last bit of power to stick the last move again.
I didn't want it to shut me down now already, so I moved over to "Les Serbes".
Pieter told me about it last weekend, and as I was in the area, I might as well give it a try.
Once opened as a 7B, now down to 7A+(7B) but it honestly felt like a (soft) 7A.
I didn't want it to shut me down now already, so I moved over to "Les Serbes".
Pieter told me about it last weekend, and as I was in the area, I might as well give it a try.
Once opened as a 7B, now down to 7A+(7B) but it honestly felt like a (soft) 7A.
Fontainebleau - Rocher Fin - Les Serbes 7A+(7B)
More and more climbers started to arrive in the area, so I looked for some solitude in the North part of the sector where you can find for instance "Siège Ejectable".
Getting my butt off the ground and doing the first move were the hardest ... so they say.
It went down on second attempt.
Soft for the grade and not really worth the detour.
Getting my butt off the ground and doing the first move were the hardest ... so they say.
It went down on second attempt.
Soft for the grade and not really worth the detour.
Fontainebleau - Rocher Fin - Siège Ejectable 7A
Another sector of Rocher Fin where it's usually calm, is the one with "L'Auvent Tripotant".
It's more located in the forest and thus doesn't dry as quick, so always found it too wet to climb.
I was astonished and pleased to find it dry enough to go for it this time.
The raccourci is a very nice problem with some very nice moves.
I flashed it, but I wouldn't mind to climb it again.
It's more located in the forest and thus doesn't dry as quick, so always found it too wet to climb.
I was astonished and pleased to find it dry enough to go for it this time.
The raccourci is a very nice problem with some very nice moves.
I flashed it, but I wouldn't mind to climb it again.
Fontainebleau - Rocher Fin - L'Auvent Tripotant (raccourci) 7A
The original version, "L'Auvent Tripotant", starts more to the right, traverses to the left and exits the same.
It took me a couple of tries to work out the movements at the start, because not all the holds were dry there.
Once I found my method, it went down like a charm. Some quite physical moves.
It took me a couple of tries to work out the movements at the start, because not all the holds were dry there.
Once I found my method, it went down like a charm. Some quite physical moves.
Fontainebleau - Rocher Fin - L'Auvent Tripotant 7B
Last, and certainly not least, to wrap up I walked towards the end of the blue circuit.
The last numbers of the blue circuit can be found down the slope in the forest, completely isolated from the main area.
The sitstart of blue number 50 is a 7B called "Parallèle / Fifty", and it is a beauty.
The top was moist and mossy, but after checking where the holds are, I gave it a go anyway.
This too was done on my second attempt.
The last numbers of the blue circuit can be found down the slope in the forest, completely isolated from the main area.
The sitstart of blue number 50 is a 7B called "Parallèle / Fifty", and it is a beauty.
The top was moist and mossy, but after checking where the holds are, I gave it a go anyway.
This too was done on my second attempt.
Fontainebleau - Rocher Fin - Parallèle / Fifty 7B
All in all, despite the fog in the morning and the humid air, I was able to climb some really nice problems, and all of them went down fast.
Were they soft, was I just feeling strong ? It certainly weren't the conditions.
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