After having been gone for 2 nights and a full day of no climbing I felt strong and the conditions were perfect.
I felt tired from driving but that didn't stop me from walking to Rocher de la Cathédrale and flash "Coup de Torchon (assis)".
Probably having repeated "Langouste Royale", a couple of days ago, was an advantage, because apart from the first move, it's in the exact same style, on an arete with bad slopers.
The good conditions surely helped too!
Fontainebleau - Rocher de la Cathédrale - Coup de Torchon (assis) 7A+
"Le Toit Tendu" in Rocher des Souris, has only been published a couple of days ago and as it is close to home, I checked it out.
It will probably never become really popular. I can't say exactly why, but it was my first thought when I found it.
Weird move at the start, but not weird enough to not flash it.
I flashed without even holding my breath. Soft for the grade. Tony must have been tired that day.
It will probably never become really popular. I can't say exactly why, but it was my first thought when I found it.
Weird move at the start, but not weird enough to not flash it.
I flashed without even holding my breath. Soft for the grade. Tony must have been tired that day.
Fontainebleau - Rocher des Souris - Le Toit Tendu (assis) 7A
At only 100m from there, in Jean des Vignes, lies a not so old 7A+ dyno opened by Nicolas Gensollen.
I had tried it already a couple of short sessions, came close, but stopped progressing in it.
Now maybe after the travel I could jump harder ?
Immediately after my first attempt of today, I felt that it was possible.
I do have quite new shoes and pushing off on the small foothold went much better.
It still took me quite some tries, had the jump once but didn't expect such a swing and still let go.
Luckily I made the attempt after that.
It's name most certainly comes from the infamous dyno "52 Gérard" in Franchard Ermitage, but besides having the dyno in common, I see no other relationship to it at all.
I had tried it already a couple of short sessions, came close, but stopped progressing in it.
Now maybe after the travel I could jump harder ?
Immediately after my first attempt of today, I felt that it was possible.
I do have quite new shoes and pushing off on the small foothold went much better.
It still took me quite some tries, had the jump once but didn't expect such a swing and still let go.
Luckily I made the attempt after that.
It's name most certainly comes from the infamous dyno "52 Gérard" in Franchard Ermitage, but besides having the dyno in common, I see no other relationship to it at all.
Fontainebleau - Jean des Vignes - 53 Gertrude 7A+
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