December 18, 2015 - A New Playground.

Every time I visit an area for the first time, I am like a kid in a new playground. Running from here to there, wanting to give everything a try.
Today was my first time in Marion des Roches and it was no different. I more or less saw the whole area, and touched nearly all the boulders around.
Some were topped, but most of them have become another project for my next visit, when I will be in a different mood, spending more time on the problems that are really worth it.
Like "Pierrot" for example, THE classic problem of the area. I had heard about it, and seen some videos about it, but in real life it's even better.
I worked out all the moves, can do the problem in 2 times, and I'm pretty confident that if I would have spent more time on it, probably would have sent it.
My "kid-mood" took the upper hand however, and I let it be for a next visit, and scouted around some more.

Before trying "Pierrot", I warmed up in "Le Canular", a dyno of course (jumpstart), originally opened as 6C(7B) as it's always difficult to grade a dyno, especially jumpstarts.
6C ... no! 7B ... no way!! 7A seemed reasonable for me, and when I got back home, I saw on bleau.info that it does indeed have that grade now.
It was a scary one to get on top, with the green, humid, slippery moss! I fell off the outclimb once, even doubted to try again.
Five minutes later I was honestly happy to be able to tick this off and never try again. My heart was almost pounding out of my chest.

Fontainebleau - Marion des Roches - Le Canular 7A

From there I walked on to the end of the area, so I would at least know if going to the end on a next visit would be worth it.

The last boulder, "Bi-Steack" is surely worth it, but it started drizzling and I couldn't really try it. Same goes for "Franck", that has the same start, but exits directly in the slab on the left.

I tried a couple of jumps in "Big Mak" which is a very nice dyno, but unfortunately, the starting hold was wet and the weird starting position hurt my elbow too much to be really able to jump. Still not healed I'm afraid!

On the way back, I made a quick stop at "Feel du Logis" because that looked still dry enough.

The method I used probably is not a correct method, and it looks like I topped out too much to the left.

Let's say I opened a small variation to it, that I will call "Feel du Logis (gauche)", and using the method I used (by convention) it will be 7A worthy.

I will send the video to Jean-Pierre but I'm not sure it will be added to the site as the big flake under the roof apparently used to be loose. 

It is glued by someone though and I didn't notice it being loose. But anyway, I feel obliged to say to watch out when climbing it.

I will go back to Marion des Roches soon!!

Fontainebleau - Marion des Roches - Feel du Logis (gauche) 7A