Criteria were that it had to be on the road between work and home and close to the parking, so no time would be lost driving or walking.
I decided to have another look at Gorge aux Châts as I pass it on the way to work and it is barely a minute walk from the parking.
After a quick view, my eyes fell on "Présomption d'Innocence", one of the first boulders in the area, so closest to the parking. I tried it once shortly on an evening in plain summer, and quickly gave up on it because it was too hot to stick the slopers of the problem. After that, I completely forgot about it, until yesterday.
I admit that I thoroughly studied the beta on the few video's I could find about it so I wouldn't loose too much time figuring it out by myself. Time is not by your side when the days are so short. A pity, because discovering and working out the beta by myself is what I enjoy most about bouldering! The urge to climb and top out however, took over.
I made a short stop this morning on my way to work to have a look at it, and ended up quickly making 2 attempts, but -1°C at 8am when it's barely light, made it too painful for the fingers and my skin. But it was sticky and I knew that I would be able to do it quickly. Not feeling the tips of the fingers, thus not knowing if I had the tiny crimp in the slab right hand correctly, made it impossible to try more. I didn't have the time to rest and let my skin warm up in between attempts anyway.
After work it was already getting darker, and even though I could still see enough, I used the torch for the first time. I was actually more curious what the effect of the light would be for the camera.
A huge undercling under the roof, a well placed kneebar, a reachy move to the right and a tiny crimp take you to the sketchy mantle into the slab, where you have to slap to the bigger sloper high up, thinking that is over then. Not being able to see your feet anymore makes it difficult and a bit scary to stand up.
It's not really over then, but if you keep your calm you are as good as done.
Fontainebleau - Gorge aux Châts - Présomption d'Innocence 7A+
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