I had planned to go to Franchard Hautes Plaines. When taking the shortcut by crossing the Isatis area, it's only a 2 minute walk.
I wanted to give "Bloc.fr" a try, but I was a little bit too ambitious as the difficulty appears to be in the first moves. Not such a good one to warm up in so I quickly decided to pack up and move on. No time to waste!
When you continue deeper into the forest for about a minute, you arrive at "Deux Faux Plis en Plats Réel". Visually one of the nicest boulders in the forest, but oh so hard.
I couldn't resist to sit down in it and try. Those who know the problem will know that also this first move is also pretty damn hard. I couldn't do it, even though I once was able to do the first 2 moves. This wasn't going to work, so I again made the decision to try something else, but what? I wanted to top something out so ... No time to waste!
After checking the topo for what was nearest by, I moved the crashpad about 20 meters to put it under "Pulpfriction". My flash attempt later, I stood on top of the boulder and I couldn't believe that what I had done was a 7B. That went way too easy.
Looking it up on bleau.info learned me that I actually flashed "Pulpfriction (gauche)", which has a more correct 7A(6C+) grade.
The flash came right on time because after those two previous desperate boulders, the morale had gotten at a pretty low point.
I tried a couple of times the original version, but (and I don't admit such a thing fast) this is really too morpho for me. My arms have to be at least 2cm longer to be able to reach the better hold in the slab above, and I couldn't find an alternative way to reach it, knowing that you are not allowed to use the holds of the left face. Next ... No time to waste!
I tried a couple of times the original version, but (and I don't admit such a thing fast) this is really too morpho for me. My arms have to be at least 2cm longer to be able to reach the better hold in the slab above, and I couldn't find an alternative way to reach it, knowing that you are not allowed to use the holds of the left face. Next ... No time to waste!
Fontainebleau - Franchard Hautes Plaines - Pulpfriction (gauche) 7A(6C+)
Now that the morale had a boost again, I was hungry for more.
Following the normal path back to the parking, takes you along the boulder with "Lapin ou Canard". Having done that already in 2010, I would normally go for the video repeat, but I had never tried the left variation, "Ah, Plus Facile!". It gets a '+' on top of the 7A of "Lapin ou Canard".
The roof part of "Ah, Plus Facile!" (what's in a name?) went easy, but I had to think a little about how to move towards the left. I used a right heelhook out of which I made a big knee-drop to be able to reach with my right hand out of the roof. A superbe move!!
Once I got the hang of that, it was quickly canned in. Check!
That went faster than expected so maybe I could still climb something else?
No time to waste!
Fontainebleau - Franchard Hautes Plaines - Ah, Plus Facile! 7A+
Going further down the path towards the parking, there is no way around "Le Mur Lombard". One of the classics of the area. A beautiful straight wall consisting out of basically one move.
Getting up and using the thumb to keep the balance before being able to take the crimp sounds like a stupid boring thing, except when you're a climber.
I had done this before in 2010 too, but here I did decide to go for the video repeat. It was starting to get dusk, so there would be no time left to look for something new where I would still have to figure out the method.
It went down quick.
Now I really had to go back to the car and go home, but still had to pass in Milly to buy some tape for the fingers, so ... No time to waste!
Fontainebleau - Franchard Hautes Plaines - Le Mur Lombard 7A(7A+)
No comments:
Post a Comment