If I remember correctly, they had changed the name to get rid of the vulgar character of it. Therefore they named it "Rocher des Demoiselles". You have to admit that it immediately sounds more attractive.
Luckily not too attractive, because it's a pretty big area with a lot of really nice problems, but for some reason it's never crowded there. I spent half a day there, and if it wouldn't have been for Tim who knew I was there and joined me, I would have been alone the whole time.
I warmed up in "Crapovsky", a dyno (of course) that it is not too difficult, but has this fear factor to it because of the tree and the small boulder immediately behind you. They would hurt when you fall on them.
I had done this before in 2011, but it serves as a good warm up and I didn't have it on video yet so ...
Fontainebleau - Rocher des Demoiselles - Crapovsky 7A
About 20m from it, you can find "Haute Précision", a 7A that looks nice from far, but isn't really something you want to fall out when you're alone, so I gave up after 1 try.
I continued on to go have a look at "Jet d'Eau (droite)".
I once walked past it, and friendly declined trying it because it's pretty high and an all-points-off dyno with still a courageous mantle after it.
I opened the crashpad anyway now and gave it a go. I felt a bit anxious, but I was confident.
Three tries later it was bagged. That went faster than expected.
Fontainebleau - Rocher des Demoiselles - Jet d'Eau droite 7A
In the meantime, I got a message from Tim who came over from Belgium.
He had just done "Begnots Story" in Boissy-aux-Cailles and was on his way to join me.
We were going to meet at "Chaman", that I wanted to try already for some time now.
Had some good attempts, but the holds were getting more and more humid after each try. Tim, who had found me in the meantime concluded too, that maybe this is a summer problem.
I told him to try "Jet d'Eau (droite)". Good idea, it seemed, because he also found himself on top after 4 or 5 tries. Way to go!
Off for some "real" climbing again.
"L'Olive (direct)" is a technical straight up wall, and is something that we both had worked in before, so logically we set off to try to finish it.
Again we found ourselves time after time stuck at the same point again. It's all about body placement, and probably a small trick that will suddenly make it a go.
I was fed up with it and we did some goes in "Popeye", about 1m to the right of "L'Olive", but with it's compression, a totally different style.
I was glad that I could mark this as done and called it a day for today.
Tim did some more tries in "L'Olive" and again adapted his method, but got really close on it this time. The energy was starting to fade however and we still wanted some juice left for tomorrow.
Next time he will probably have it!
Fontainebleau - Rocher des Demoiselles - Popeye 7A
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