Lots of tries, no topouts.
We warmed up in "Mégalatte", but both had to give up on it. Partly because we couldn't find the correct method and partly because we were being drawn to try "Megalight", next to it.
Nice arete, with a sloper pinch left hand out of which you have to dyno far to the right.
Tim had some problems sticking the pinch long enough to be able to change the feet. For me it didn't give that much problems, but I couldn't jump far enough onto the sloper far right. It's a strange position out of which you have to jump. Next time, we thought, and moved on.
The next one was "Ejection Précoce", a 7A+ dyno that has given me problems in the past, and today too, I couldn't finish it.
It was time for Tim to go home, and arriving on the parking, I was just in time to welcome Pieter who had made the drive from Belgium this morning to have some days off work to climb and be in the forest.
I asked Pieter to go to the Cassepot area, and he agreed, having not climbed there before too, and it was only a 5 minute drive from here.
Cassepot has actually 3 sub-areas, Cassepot Roches Grises, Cassepot Roches Oranges and Cassepot Roches Roses.
We started off in Roches Grises with "Crampe in the Ghetto", graded 6C(7A) seemed like a good warm up.
It went down a bit too easy for the both of us and we agreed that even for 6C it was too soft.
We did some tries in the sitstart which is 7A(7A+), but the first move was a bit too agressive for a second climb for Pieter to give it too much tries.
Fontainebleau - Cassepot Roches Grises - Crampe in the Ghetto 6C(7A)
Our Belgian friend, Jan de Smit, cleaned up and opened some boulders recently nearby in the area. The sector is being known as the "Star Wars sector" because most of them have a name that's linked to the Star Wars movies.
"Return of the Jedi" is one of them, one of the nicest in my humble opinion.
Pieter didn't try it for long, because it was his first day and didn't want to overdo with climbing.
I needed quite some tries and adapted the method a lot. In the end we were doubting if the method was completely correct, but for me the method I used did feel like a small 7A.
All slopers, but the good thing about a new boulder is that the surface still has a rougher stickier feel.
Fontainebleau - Cassepot Roches Grises - Return of the Jedi 7A
Having done that and not immediately having another idea in mind ("Double Axel" was still taken), I proposed to Pieter to make the walk to the Cassepot Roches Roses area.
There is not much to do there, but there is a 6C+, called "Bleau", that only has "beautiful climb" as description in the topo.
I had seen some pictures of it long ago and "Bleau" being the only problem in the guidebook described as "beautiful climb", drew my curiosity.
After telling that to Pieter, he was curious enough too, so we started the walk towards it.
When we found it we both had the same feeling of disappointment. Was that it?
It was a damp, with a small layer of green moss little overhang. If we didn't have had made that long walk there, we both wouldn't have tried it.
We tried it anyway, because we were there now and we didn't feel like coming back here just for that, so better to get this one off the list.
It wasn't for granted and the problem got nicer as we tried it. It does have some nice moves in it, but to only give it "beautiful climb" as description, was still exaggerated.
I was able to do it, but unfortunately Pieter will have to come back for it. If he wants to of course, honestly I don't think so.
I think that the most beautiful thing about this problem is ... its name.
Fontainebleau - Cassepot Roches Roses - Bleau 6C+
I still had some time left after that so on the way back we still wanted to do some tries in "Merci Didier", a 7B on a really nice boulder in Cassepot Roches Grises.
That felt so damn hard, I couldn't believe it was 7B. A quick analysis of the topo learned us that we were actually trying "Cent Pofs et Sans Reproche", a 7C(7C+) right next to it.
By the time we had figured that out, I had lost all my energy and had to go home anyway.
Pieter followed soon after that to join us at my place for diner. Thanks Sandra for the great food!!
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