Last week when it was too wet, I had imagined a possible method for doing "Bouquet de Grès (direct)", opened by Manu (Marquès) and graded 7C+. The method that I had seen didn't look as hard as 7C+, but of course, it's always hard to tell when it's not possible to really feel the holds and when still standing on the ground. It was the first boulder we walked to yesterday morning.
Olaf made some quick ascents of two lines in the 6th grade and it didn't take very long before I worked through the method for "Bouquet de Grès (direct)" that I had envisioned last week. Quicker than expected, I was able to send the line.
As Manu's original direct version actually slightly goes around, forcing you to use the left arete, which is definitely much harder, I don't want to say it's the same line or the same problem. My version is actually a more direct version than Manu's direct and that's why I decided to not claim an ascent of the original "Bouquet de Grès (direct)", but rather decided to name my version "Bouquet de Grès (direct direct)", with the proposed grade of 7B+.
Beautiful swing to catch and hold on this one.
Fontainebleau - Le Calvaire Est - Bouquet de Grès (direct direct) 7B+
Our next stop was at the roof / wall of "SDF", where there's a number of different variations. My attention immediately went to the hardest line, being "SDF" itself. The long line starts at the very right, follows the easy crack under the roof, to come out of the roof near the middle and finish just left of the vertical crack. It quickly became obvious that the crux started about 1m before climbing out of the roof until it gets easy again in the vertical section, so we spent, and needed, some time and effort to work out the crux section. I ended up finding a way by using my long arms to reach a good, but very far, vertical hold left hand and swing the legs over to the left; all while staying in compression between the good hold left and a bad slopey uncertain crimp with only the upper fingertips of the right hand.
I gave the laying start at the far right end a try and worked my way easily through the first up to the start of the crux. Being so low from the ground, the hardest part on that section is trying to not the stones on the ground, which isn't my favorite type of climbing. It also takes some chalk and friction off of the fingers, and it made me fire out of the bad right hand crimp when going for the far hold left hand.
Not eager to do that easy but annoying first section, I decided to just start with the last jug of the easy first section, just before the crux section.
It was a beautiful day with blue a blue sky and an enjoyable temperature and me and Olaf had a great time doing what we wanted.
Not eager to do that easy but annoying first section, I decided to just start with the last jug of the easy first section, just before the crux section.
It was a beautiful day with blue a blue sky and an enjoyable temperature and me and Olaf had a great time doing what we wanted.
Fontainebleau - Le Calvaire Est - SDF (raccourci) 7B
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