Wednesday, April 16, 2025

April 16, 2025 - Manyata (droite).

After a very stressful day, I needed to clear my head and wanted to go for a climb after dinner. My idea was to go try "Manyata" again, without expecting too much of it. After all, it was going to be fourth session and I had been falling at the same point over and over again.
Having carefully inspected the key hold of "Manyata" many times, I am almost 100% sure that this broke at some point. Both bleau.info and 8a.nu show the last repeat of "Manyata" in 2016, so it must have broken s around that time.
I had many different thoughts about it over the past years, going from 'that's impossible', 'how does it go?' and 'something must have broken' many years ago, to 'there must be another way', 'hmmm, maybe it's possible this way' and 'I think I can do it' a few weeks ago.
This evening, with the intention to just be there and try the moves, just me and the boulder, away from all other thoughts, I felt good on it. So good even, that I finally managed to climb beyond the point where I always fell.
A sense of sending stress came over me, but I felt relaxed at the same time. There wasn't any real pressure, but then again there kind of was. It was a strange feeling, but it seemed to drive me somehow.
Getting past my high point again and not wanting to fall off, I decided at that moment to top out on the right. The least difficult topout.
I named it "Manyata (droite)", and graded it 7B+.
The direct exit remains a project. Perfect to go back for on an evening after work when my head needs to be cleared again.

Fontainebleau - Rocher Guichot - Manyata (droite) 7B+

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