Saturday, April 12, 2025

April 12, 2025 - From low to high.

There was rain forecasted to start today, and I expected it to be raining already this morning, but when I checked my weather app again, it was delayed to start raining near the evening. The sun was out, it was already quite warm, but good enough to go and try the a new right exit variation on the low boulder of "Voûte Étoilée" in Rocher Cailleau. I had one the original already three years, and I remembered that it didn't take me very long to do that one. The right exit almost seemed like a formality.
Upon arrival, I did have to admit that it the right exit part felt quite hard and morpho, but after some fine tuning, I soon had found the method and felt ready for attempting from the start. 
It only took me two attempts from the start. It definitely is harder than the original direct version, but still felt rather like a soft 7C at most in my humble opinion.

Fontainebleau - Rocher Cailleau -Voûte Étoilée (droite) 7C+(7C)



Not feeling like going to the "Vandale" boulder, I scrolled through bleau.info, looking for some easier seventh grade problems that I hadn't done yet for some reason. "Entre Deux Guides (assis)" was apparently one of them and so was "Malus Écologique (assis)" on the high boulder right next to it. It was a good reason to walk over to that little sector.
It took a while before I had figured out a method for the standing start, but as soon as I did, I did it on my second attempt from the sitstart.

Fontainebleau - Rocher Cailleau - Entre Deux Guides (assis) 7A



For "Malus Écologique (assis)" I only needed one attempt, even though, despite having done the much harder "Malus Auto (direct)" three years ago, I must admit that I felt a bit scared that high up without really knowing what to do or what to expect.

Fontainebleau - Rocher Cailleau -Malus Écologique (assis) 7A

4 comments:

  1. Voûte Étoilée (droite) 7C+(7C)
    Hello Filip, since I did the variant with the direct exit two years ago, I was at the boulder the day before you to try the right exit. Unfortunately I was too tired after almost three weeks of bouldering, but I found the solution for myself. Like you, I think it's not 7c+, but I haven't done a boulder of that grade to be able to make a final judgment. The day you did the boulder, I happened to see you in the supermarket in Oncy-sur-Ecole, but I didn't dare say hello. It was very busy, and I didn't want to disturb you. Maybe next time.

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  2. the next time i will not hesitate for sure :-) Take care!!!

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