Upon arrival, I did have to admit that it the right exit part felt quite hard and morpho, but after some fine tuning, I soon had found the method and felt ready for attempting from the start.
It only took me two attempts from the start. It definitely is harder than the original direct version, but still felt rather like a soft 7C at most in my humble opinion.
Fontainebleau - Rocher Cailleau -Voûte Étoilée (droite) 7C+(7C)
Not feeling like going to the "Vandale" boulder, I scrolled through bleau.info, looking for some easier seventh grade problems that I hadn't done yet for some reason. "Entre Deux Guides (assis)" was apparently one of them and so was "Malus Écologique (assis)" on the high boulder right next to it. It was a good reason to walk over to that little sector.
It took a while before I had figured out a method for the standing start, but as soon as I did, I did it on my second attempt from the sitstart.
It took a while before I had figured out a method for the standing start, but as soon as I did, I did it on my second attempt from the sitstart.
Fontainebleau - Rocher Cailleau - Entre Deux Guides (assis) 7A
For "Malus Écologique (assis)" I only needed one attempt, even though, despite having done the much harder "Malus Auto (direct)" three years ago, I must admit that I felt a bit scared that high up without really knowing what to do or what to expect.
Fontainebleau - Rocher Cailleau -Malus Écologique (assis) 7A
Voûte Étoilée (droite) 7C+(7C)
ReplyDeleteHello Filip, since I did the variant with the direct exit two years ago, I was at the boulder the day before you to try the right exit. Unfortunately I was too tired after almost three weeks of bouldering, but I found the solution for myself. Like you, I think it's not 7c+, but I haven't done a boulder of that grade to be able to make a final judgment. The day you did the boulder, I happened to see you in the supermarket in Oncy-sur-Ecole, but I didn't dare say hello. It was very busy, and I didn't want to disturb you. Maybe next time.
Lukas
ReplyDeleteHi Lukas,
Deletedon't hesitate to say hi next time ;-)
the next time i will not hesitate for sure :-) Take care!!!
ReplyDelete