Maybe it were the tiny frost particles on the rock that melted upon contact with my skin? Maybe my fingers were greasy because of loosing some skin the last couple of days?
I any case, it was annoying. The friction wasn't wasn't as I hoped.
My choice for Rocher des Demoiselles wasn't the best one because it was mostly shady and the few sunbeams that were able to pierce through the trees, weren't enough to warm the air up.
It didn't really matter, I didn't have any expectations for today and wandered around looking for something that I felt was worth trying today.
The first stop was at "Sainte-Nitouche (assis)".
A beautiful problem, to me at least, that turned out to be quite hard.
The moves were all ok to do, but my greasy fingers were making the slopers hard to trust.
It became my main project of the day as I liked it so much and had the drive to finish it.
A little bit more than half an hour later it was done.
Fontainebleau - Rocher des Demoiselles - Sainte-Nitouche (assis) 7A+(7A)
Further up the hill there is the small roof of "Karate Kid", and has some really nice moves.
I worked out all the moves and the moment I went for a full attempt, I made a bad fall trying to swing my feet over the other edge of the roof.
It gave me a light headache and I decided to move on.
I worked out all the moves and the moment I went for a full attempt, I made a bad fall trying to swing my feet over the other edge of the roof.
It gave me a light headache and I decided to move on.
Taking a bad fall in "Karate Kid".
I walked back down the hill a bit further so I could pass by "L'Espoir Naufragé" and maybe try it on my way back.
It definitely got my interest at first sight of it.
I watched a video for some beta to save some time and a handful of tries later, I made it to the top.
Nice problem! Physical.
Fontainebleau - Rocher des Demoiselles - L'Espoir Naufragé 7A+
I still wanted to make one more stop before leaving, and that was at "Crampe Man".
Even for 6C I would consider it as soft, because I flashed this easily and besides the first move, it felt like a walk in the park.
Even for 6C I would consider it as soft, because I flashed this easily and besides the first move, it felt like a walk in the park.
Fontainebleau - Rocher des Demoiselles - Crampe Man 6C+
I couldn't figure out the sitstart of "Crampe Man (assis)" immediately and as I didn't want to loose time to try one last problem that I had on my mind, I packed up and moved all my stuff to the boulder next to it.
I had never really tried "Chorizo" before, but today I wanted to spend some time on it.
"Chorizo" is quite my anti-style, a straight up wall where balance and subtle moving is what is required to climb it.
It took me many tries to be able to reach the crimp high left, keep my balance and move my feet.
Once I was able to do that, I was able to reach for the edge, start with the mantle, got spooked as there were no holds anymore and slid off. It was a scary fall.
The attempt right after it, I was able to climb it to the top, but it felt hard!
The mantle on the top was really scary and had a point-of-no-return. The point from where, once you've passed it, you will probably get hurt when you fall.
Very nice problem though!
I had never really tried "Chorizo" before, but today I wanted to spend some time on it.
"Chorizo" is quite my anti-style, a straight up wall where balance and subtle moving is what is required to climb it.
It took me many tries to be able to reach the crimp high left, keep my balance and move my feet.
Once I was able to do that, I was able to reach for the edge, start with the mantle, got spooked as there were no holds anymore and slid off. It was a scary fall.
The attempt right after it, I was able to climb it to the top, but it felt hard!
The mantle on the top was really scary and had a point-of-no-return. The point from where, once you've passed it, you will probably get hurt when you fall.
Very nice problem though!
Fontainebleau - Rocher des Demoiselles - Chorizo 7A(6C+)
It was time to leave now. Sausages, spicy or not, give me greasy fingers.
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