Tuesday, April 19, 2016

April 19, 2016 - Getting high.

The workload at work has gotten out of hand the last days.
Working my ass off all day long without breaks, not even a lunch break and finding myself with even more work at the end of the day than I started with in the morning.
There are better days than that.

The weather is nice, Spring is bursting and I was desperate to go for a climb after diner.
I needed to disconnect from all the work, and being alone in the forest, using climbing as a meditation is a perfect remedy to get rid of all today's stress.

The boulder with "Le Sacre du Printemps" is located in a remote part of Justice de Chambergeot and going there starts with a really nice idyllic walk through a sandy part into the forest.
It offers 3 problems.
The arete on the left, "Le Sacre du Printemps (sans convention)", a 7B+ that follows the left arete and exits on the prow.
Straight through the middle there is the instant classic 7C+, "Le Sacre du Printemps", starting in the back of the roof and gradually using both aretes to finally exit on the prow. You need an armspan of almost 3 meters for this.
And then there is the easiest one, "Le Sacre du Printemps (droite)" as can be seen in the video.

The "droite" starts off with big easy holds on the right, gradually goes over into not so easy slopers and at the prow comes the hard crux, after which you still have to keep your act together to successfully top it out.
I had to practice the crux quite a lot of times before I had found out the correct movements and still after I knew what to do, it wasn't a give away to link it all together, even with the beginning being easy.

Endorphines and adrenaline were released in my body and when I made the last move to the top jug, I got high. About three and a half meters I think.

I got back home being a different person than an hour before.
I'll go back there soon. There are still 2 other problems to get high on.

Fontainebleau - Justice de Chambergeot - Le Sacre du Printemps (droite) 7A


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