April 01, 2016 - The Big Island (assis) 8C+(9A)

My shoulder still hurts, but after 4 days of no climbing due to bad weather, I was able (read forced) to let it rest.
Finally today the sun was finally out again sometimes and the last drops of rain fell during the night.

On my way back from work, I stopped for a quick climb at Rocher de Corne-Biche.
Well, quick is an understatement because I forgot again how long the walk is up to the small sector with "Eclats". Fifteen minutes of walking, and I walk pretty fast, is a long time in terms of Fontainebleau area approaches.

I immediately started with "Eclats" ... or at least that's what I thought.
It felt a bit too easy for 7A, but maybe I was in a strong shape because of the rest.
It was only at home that I read that even though the start is the same, it climbs to the right into the wall and not to the left as in the video.
I looked up the left variation, but I can't find anything about it on the web, nor in any of the many topos I have at hand at home.
Anyway, I asked Jean-Pierre if he knows about it. We will know soon.

For now I logically called it "Eclats (gauche)" and the grade will be something like 6C(7A)'ish, but more direction 6C.

Fontainebleau - Rocher de Corne-Biche - Eclats 7A

After that I still tried "Le Vin du Dimanche (direct)" and I got really close, I even got my fingers over the edge a couple of times, but no cigar.

It was time to leave, knowing that there was still a fifteen minute walk ahead of me. I left with heavy feet, I was so close ...

Those who were drawn here by the title probably forgot that today is April Fool's Day.

"The Big Island (assis)" is still not climbed by anyone.

UPDATE: the opener of "Eclats", Pascal Etienne, has confirmed that the version of my video does show the method he used to open "Eclats".
Jean-Pierre has updated bleau.info and created a variation called "Eclats (droite)".
This video of Ivan Moreels shows "Eclats (droite)".