Having done quite some overtime during my travel, I was able to take back some hours today, allowing me to visit Rocher de la Salamandre again.
It has been wet a lot and somehow, that side of the hill always catches a lot of wind so the boulders there dry really quick, especially them being on the south.
"Armani" was the first problem I went for.
I never tried it before because of the strange start and it never got in to me to try it. After all, there were enough other problems to try.
But today, as I already wrote, I used it as a warm up.
The rest must have done me good, because I flashed it with ease. Only the first move was a bit sketchy, but I stayed focused and finished it.
If I remember correctly it was opened and proposed 7B. Now it's at 7A+, but I give it at most 7A.
Fontainebleau - Rocher de la Salamandre Est - Armani 7A+
On the other side of the boulder, I gave "Diesel" a couple of tries, but the conditions on the North side of the boulder were not good enough, far from decent. Some other time.
Also "Tomahawk" received some attention, but I just can't do the start. I should study the beta a bit I think.
I've seen a version where someone starts with the pinch right hand, but all other videos show an extra move to go for the pinch. It's damn hard move!!!
Also "Tomahawk" received some attention, but I just can't do the start. I should study the beta a bit I think.
I've seen a version where someone starts with the pinch right hand, but all other videos show an extra move to go for the pinch. It's damn hard move!!!
A little higher up the hill is the boulder with "Métal Hurlant". The holds of the start were wet though, but the variation, "Blocage Hurlant" was completely dry.
After working out the first moves, it went down pretty quick too.
A bit scary on the topout with the small boulder right under you.
Fontainebleau - Rocher de la Salamandre Est - Blocage Hurlant 7A+
It was almost time to leave, but there was still time enough to stop at the 'Bio' boulder on the way back.
It's visually one of the nicest boulders of the area and again some new variations had been opened on it.
One of them is "Biodégradable", a 7B variation with the same start as "La Biosarde", but going to the left and then with a small crack in the roof to the crack to exit there.
It consists of three parts.
The first part is the easiest, then comes the move from the small crack in the roof to the edge which is quite hard and after that comes the hardest part where you have to match both hands via the slopers towards the crack and aim for the jug at the top of it.
Hard, but for me it was the nicest variation of the three that I already did on this boulder, also the hardest.
Trust me, I only shout and swear like that when I'm alone.
It's visually one of the nicest boulders of the area and again some new variations had been opened on it.
One of them is "Biodégradable", a 7B variation with the same start as "La Biosarde", but going to the left and then with a small crack in the roof to the crack to exit there.
It consists of three parts.
The first part is the easiest, then comes the move from the small crack in the roof to the edge which is quite hard and after that comes the hardest part where you have to match both hands via the slopers towards the crack and aim for the jug at the top of it.
Hard, but for me it was the nicest variation of the three that I already did on this boulder, also the hardest.
Trust me, I only shout and swear like that when I'm alone.
Fontainebleau - Rocher de la Salamandre Est - Biodégradable 7B
There is still a lot to do in the area, and still so much more potential.
It's a good thing because I like going there. One of my favourite areas of the forest.
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