Weather kept me from climbing and the lack of time due to work kept me from being in the forest.
Finally today, I found a little bit of time and was able to climb. It was mostly wet because of rain from the last couple of days and the drizzle this morning. A grey sky made sure that most would stay wet for the whole day.
Luckily there was wind, and I knew exactly where to go. The "Bambou" boulder in a small quick drying sector of J.A. Martin.
A couple of variations of "Coup de Bambou" have been opened there lately, out of which "Le Bout du Bambou". A short, but really physical traverse with a slightly morpho last move.
I had been trying this for a while now, and got pretty close every time, but hadn't made it to the finish yet.
Last week, Jean-Hervé B. gave me some new beta, where I was able to skip one quite physical move, thus giving me that small last bit of power needed to successfully execute the last move.
I felt confident after this hard work week because the motivation was higher than ever after a week without climbing!
I warmed up doing the problem in separate pieces, and knew instantly that with this new beta, I would do it quickly now.
I decided to also use my phone for filming so I could get the problem from 2 angles. Something I will not do anymore because it ate my phone's battery and the editing took me longer than I actually wanted.
Anyway, it gave me the chance to make a different than usual video of it, for once.
After the warmup, it still took me a couple of tries, with some rest in between, to finish the problem as a whole ... finally!
This felt harder than 7A to me. Even when being able to execute all moves without thinking, I really had to dig deep. Nice moves though!
Fontainebleau - J.A. Martin - Le Bout du Bambou 7A
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