January 29, 2016 - Keeping the balance.

After working in the evening at home again this week, it was time to set the balance, so I asked to leave a bit earlier today.
Luckily it was approved, because the weekend is announced to be rainy and next week I will have a very busy workweek. Time to do some climbing then.

I went to Rocher de la Salamandre Est again, knowing it dries quickly on the south side of the hill.
The temperature was nice, and the wind made the boulders perfectly dry and kept them nicely cool. It was perfect for friction!
My warmup was going to be "Tignous", a 7A on the second boulder when arriving up the hill, just before entering the main area. Right next to the aquaduct, it treats you with a really nice view over it!
"Tignous" looks really easy, which it is for the first part, but I really had to struggle hard to get over the mantle into the slab. A hard struggle, but at least I was warm and the view was nice!

Fontainebleau - Rocher de la Salamandre Est - Tignous 7A

A little bit further up the hill, on the crest, deeper in the forest, is a nice overhang with exit on slopers with several problems (mostly variations) on it. 

The most logical problem is "La Biosarde". Something I briefly tried on my first visit there, but I didn't want to spend too much time on it back then. There was still too much to see.

Now, however, I took some time to work out all the separate moves. 

When I knew all the moves more or less by heart, I setup the camera and surprisingly was able to do it first go. Sometimes it pays off to spend some time to practice.

I really enjoyed trying the moves and climbing the problem. I'll go back to try the several other variations. Great moves!

Fontainebleau - Rocher de la Salamandre Est - La Biosarde 7A+(7B)

With this done, I wanted to have a look at the north side of the hill where the boulders were almost dry, but still too humid to be climbed. Summer sector probably.

I was treated however with seeing 5 big deers who ran past me at about 50m. I felt blessed finally seeing some wildlife again!

On my way back to the car, I came past "Belle Pince", a small prow, that has one side mostly wet, but now it was dry so I took my chance. 

Opened as 6C(7A), and I think 6C will be more correct, but I gave it 6C+ for the matter of doubt.

It didn't steal it's name this small boulder. It does have a beautiful looking pinch that fits perfectly in your hand, made to be squeezed!

This evening I will work again a little bit, to keep the balance.

Fontainebleau - Rocher de la Salamandre Est - Belle Pince 6C(7A)