Monday, February 15, 2016

February 15, 2016 - Above sea level.

Today was a nice day, I had to work, but the sun was out most of the time and a little longer.
I went to 91.1 to finish what I started yesterday, but had to give up due to the rain after one try and a lot of swearing.

91.1 is a nice little area right between the more crowded Cul de Chien and Roche aux Sabots areas.
It has a yellow, 2 orange and a red circuit and only a handful 7 degree problems but more has been opened lately.

"Le Sous-Plomb (direct)" is one of them and is a variation of "Le Sous-Plomb", which I already did, but for the "direct" you exit straight up and are not allowed to use the arete.
Yesterday it wasn't possible to hold the big pocket, which is a flat sloper, because of the rain.
Now it stuck!
Most of the time, after a lot of rain, the friction is much better because the rock is washed and clean. I took advantage of it.

Fontainebleau - 91.1 - Le Sous-Plomb (direct) 7A




About the next thing I wanted to try I was doubting a little.
I couldn't figure out the first moves of the newly opened "Le Bowling" and I was glad that I chose to try "Le Flipper (assis)" again instead. Glad, because I was finally able to finish it! Finally, because it did take quite some sessions to complete.
The standing start is a classic 6B on pure compression. I did it in April 2011 and gave it 5 stars. I rest my case because I still believe that the stand is worth those stars. The sitstart "only" got 4 because the extra couple of moves don't really add a lot of beauty, they simply make it a bit more difficult.
Still a must try when you're in the area!!

Fontainebleau - 91.1 - Le Flipper (assis) 7A




Last for today, but certainly not least, was "Le Krill", another recently opened problem.
Yesterday I had a quick look at it but I couldn't figure out how it could start sitting, but then again, it was soaking wet. 
Today, with dry rock and good friction, was a totally different story. I found out the start quickly and did the problem on my third go.
I'm not sure about the grade though, it felt soft for 7A, but I'm sure the good friction has helped.

By the way, for those interested, the name of the area 91.1 comes from the fact that the top of the hill is at 91.1 meters above sea level. Now you immediately know where the names of the areas 95.2 and Le 111 come from.

Fontainebleau - 91.1 - Le Krill 7A


No comments:

Post a Comment