February 17, 2016 - Improvisation and projects.

I took half a day off today, because from tomorrow on the weather will be bad again.
My plan was to go first to Cassepot Roches Grises. I needed some peace and quiet and wanted to try "Double Axel". I was determined to finish it today!
I almost can't describe how big my disappointment was when I arrived, seeing a group of 6 Swedish youngsters loudly trying "Double Axel". Can't blame them for being there of course, but I didn't feel like being among other people at that moment, so I said hi and bye and went back to the car.
On my way to the car I had to quickly improvise where to go and what to do now. I know, a luxury problem, but still an annoying situation. There went my plan for the afternoon.

I decided to go to Apremont Butte aux Peintres instead so I could try "Psykokwak", a pretty new 7B+ short overhang with a big dyno on slopers.

First I had to warm up, which I did with "Approche du Loin (assis)", at only 15 meters from "Psykokwak".
Not that difficult problem, but with bad slopers that do require good conditions. For some reason I did feel a bit scared when doing the last move. My weight was tilting to the left and I feared making a quite deep twisting fall. I was glad I bagged it. The toehook with the right foot made all the difference.

Fontainebleau - Apremont Butte aux Peintres - Approche du Loin (assis) 7A

I had some good tries in "Psykokwak", but it wasn't as dry as I expected. Then again the boulders are on the North side of the hill and don't catch too much sun or wind. I had to give up when the slopers starting getting dark humid spots on them. 

Some good tries, but no use to continue trying those slopers in conditions like this. Project!

I had to improvise again and there were many options.

The choice was made to stay in the Apremont areas.

Now I wanted to make sure to be really alone and went to Apremont Vallon de la Solitude. 

Last time I was there, I wanted to try "Albarrableau", a low 7B+ roof that looks really nice, but then it started raining. Now it was for sure going to stay dry the whole day.

It was a long walk though and I started to feel the efforts I made so far. Not to forget the kilometers that I climbed yesterday, making me a fortune in the process.

It was harder than expected and I was getting tired.
With "Onde de Choc" nearby, I went to try that again.

A couple of times I came out while doing the last move.
The problem with "Onde de Choc" for me is that I always try it after having done quite a lot of stuff already, being pretty tired already.
I'm sure that when I try it being still fresh, it will go down fast. Two projects!

I'm always bored when taking a rest, so I take my rests while walking to the next problem.
On my way to the car, I wanted to finally try "Knees". All other times I past by it, there were other people trying it and now on a regular Wednesday afternoon, I took my chance.

I did it quickly. It certainly isn't 7A+, but it did feel like hard 7A, mainly because the moves are pretty physical and I felt tired.

It sucked "dabbing" the crashpad a bit and I tried to do it again a couple of times, but the power was gone. Anyway, I didn't have the impression that the "dab" helped me in any way. It was simply because the roof is low and the crashpad quite thick.
I will go back one day to try the "rallongé" anyway. Project!

It was time to call it a day.

Fontainebleau - Apremont - Knees 7A(7A+)

Some last improvisation came when I was almost the car.

Right next to the parking you can find Apremont Butte aux Dames. 

The 7A there closest to the parking is "Patate d'Enfer" in which I still desperately tried to make the first move, but it's morpho, on slopers, the skin was gone and my body said stop. At least I know now where it is. Another project!