November 21, 2015 - Sticky conditions before the rain came back.

It had been pouring rain yesterday and the first part of the night, but there was a lot of wind that dried most of the boulders good and quickly. On top of that, the temperature went down to a mere 6°C. That meant perfect conditions for the boulders that were dry enough.
I was limited in time today, due to circumstances, but tried to make the best of it before the rain came back.
And the rain is back, yes, and how!! It's raining cats and dogs again since 3 pm, but it will start clearing up again during the night and should stay clear sky all day tomorrow, with about 5°C and a lot of wind. Looking forward to tomorrow!!!
Started off in Rocher du Potala where I repeated "Icare" and was able to do "Samarkand rallongé".
Both in supreme conditions with a cold wind to keep the rock cool.
After that it started drizzling a bit and I went to J.A. Martin to check out "Contact", but I must have been dreaming while walking because I ended up way further in Rocher Cailleau at the "Vandale" block.
The rain had stopped again by that time and the wind had blown the boulder dry, so I did some tries in "C'est à Sept B" to the left of "Vandale". It used to be a nameless 7A that apparently got a name now and has (rightfully) been upgraded to 7A+.
It proved to be too hard for me today and it started raining again. This time more heavily, looking like it was not going to stop untill this night so I had to leave.
Still found and checked out "Contact" on my way back.

Fontainebleau - Rocher du Potala - Icare 7A+

They might as well call this one "I Don't Care (about the pain when that sharp left marbled crimp cuts through the skin of your fingers)".

Tried it last week too but then the conditions were too bad to stick the top. I could make the dynamic move every time, but always slid off the top sloper.
With today's conditions (where it was dry) it stuck easily!!

Fontainebleau - Rocher du Potala - Samarkand (rallongé par le bas) 7B(7B+)

This is a beauty!! Really nice movements on slopers in supreme conditions!
Once you have figured out the sequence and know it enough to be able to execute the moves without too much thinking, this becomes not that hard anymore, but still worth the grade!