Everything was humid this evening, so I finally decided to have a look for it.
It was quickly obvious to me that it was going to be hard to find. Knowing the main area more or less by heart, I couldn't recall seeing the boulder or shape of it anywhere near it. I would have to divert from the main area and scout around in the forest that luckily isn't so dense this time of the year.
It took me about 20 minutes to find it, and those who know the area, know that this a long time for this small area.
I had to look up the description of where it was, thank you 4G!!
"Eliminating dyno to a jug right hand". That's what it says on bleau.info, but what hold was the jug and what was eliminated? It wasn't really clear to me, but I tried to take a logical approach.
The left pocket looks like a jug, but it really isn't. It is more a sloper, and only when going really deep, it starts to become a hold, but not a jug, and not the one that you would go for right hand.
The big right pocket isn't used by Philippe Jaubert on the 3 picture sequence found on bleau.info so there is one eliminate.
The middle pocket was the closest match of being a jug that you would logically go for right handed.
The big right sidepull at the start turns the dyno into no dyno anymore, so I eliminated that too.
A jumpstart from the ground up to the middle pocket turned out to be a real dyno move. A pretty nasty one even.
It laughed at me in my face, even humiliated me. It was a coordinated dyno in its purest form. Slightly too much left, right, up or down made it impossible for me to stick the hold.
There was time pressure, and after a while I was close to giving up on it as it started to get dark, it was humid and I sometimes thought that maybe I made it too difficult for the grade it supposedly is, but this is Bleau and you have to stay humble.
I am glad I kept on trying because I made it after all, making sure I don't have to look for this one again.
Despite the swearing, I had fun with it and was glad when I was standing on top.
Oh yeah, when standing in front of 18 red, you have to go 60m West and 30m South. Good luck!
Fontainebleau - La Ségognole - Emission en Direct 6C
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