Fontainebleau - Buthiers Piscine - Magic Bus 7B+
I remember trying this for the first time in October 2010.
I think I managed to stick the crux 1 time back then and thought that maybe it was too hard for me. So I didn't go back to it until this year.
In a first short session this year, I couldn't even do the crux move anymore so I left it for what it was.
A couple of weeks ago I went back with some friends, more out of a coincidence, and suddenly could do the crux move again. I could even do the problem in 2 parts. Now I just needed to link them.
This morning I climbed past the crux move in my first try but wasn't able to add the dynamic move to the ledge.
I knew then that it might happen today so I focused a couple of times on doing only the dynamic move until I stuck it 2 times in a row. I then did it from the beginning the first try after that.
It all went like a charm.
Sometimes it just has to "click" and BAM, there it goes!
Next time I'm there, it will be for the left variation.
I think I managed to stick the crux 1 time back then and thought that maybe it was too hard for me. So I didn't go back to it until this year.
In a first short session this year, I couldn't even do the crux move anymore so I left it for what it was.
A couple of weeks ago I went back with some friends, more out of a coincidence, and suddenly could do the crux move again. I could even do the problem in 2 parts. Now I just needed to link them.
This morning I climbed past the crux move in my first try but wasn't able to add the dynamic move to the ledge.
I knew then that it might happen today so I focused a couple of times on doing only the dynamic move until I stuck it 2 times in a row. I then did it from the beginning the first try after that.
It all went like a charm.
Sometimes it just has to "click" and BAM, there it goes!
Next time I'm there, it will be for the left variation.
Fontainebleau - Gorge aux Châts - Le Ressort Titan sans boucle 7A
I had already finished climbing, taken a shower and changed clothes, but a sudden drive made me go the forest again to repeat "Le Ressort Titan sans boucle" (what's in a name ?).
I tried this yesterday evening too, but quickly decided that the first move was going to be too morpho for me.
However, after watching the video of it again late this afternoon, I saw another foot placement and decided to go out and give it another quick try with this new beta.
20 minutes and 2 tries later I was standing on top of the boulder. It was all about that foot!
Soft for the grade, especially with long arms.
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