Fontainebleau - Cuvier Ouest - Figure Imposée 6C
Cuvier may be crowded, but it's always peace and quiet in this part, Cuvier Ouest. Some nice boulders up there on the hill, that unfortunately are mostly being forgotten, and you can see that also on the number of repetitions of the problems.
Injustified, I say, but on the other hand, let it be, as it serves as a sort of refuge for those who want to escape the bigger crowds.
When I saw this boulder on video it looked really cool, which in reality it is, but it's just so much more impressive when standing there in front of (or under) it.
I actually went there to try the 7A version (Un Toit Pour Saigner), which is more in the middle and you dyno or use the underclings to go straight to the top without using the arete.
Honestly ... I chickened out as I was too impressed and didn't want to risk making a bad fall being out there all alone. I was already a bit lucky there ...
Maybe another time with someone to spot me.
Anyway, "Figure Imposée" is a nice 6C that I can recommend!!
Injustified, I say, but on the other hand, let it be, as it serves as a sort of refuge for those who want to escape the bigger crowds.
When I saw this boulder on video it looked really cool, which in reality it is, but it's just so much more impressive when standing there in front of (or under) it.
I actually went there to try the 7A version (Un Toit Pour Saigner), which is more in the middle and you dyno or use the underclings to go straight to the top without using the arete.
Honestly ... I chickened out as I was too impressed and didn't want to risk making a bad fall being out there all alone. I was already a bit lucky there ...
Maybe another time with someone to spot me.
Anyway, "Figure Imposée" is a nice 6C that I can recommend!!
Fontainebleau - Cuvier Ouest - Jus de Paume 7A+
Many many times I walked past this boulder without even noticing "Jus de Paume". I guess it goes unnoticed because of the overwhelming "Imothep" that resides just left of it on the same boulder.
When I looked at it, it looked so easy and thoughts like "I'm gonna flash this so hard" went through my mind.
But then I was reminded by the 'Fontainebleauness' to take a step back, retract those thoughts and revert into humble-mode!!
Damn this felt hard!
I thought the first move (the jumpstart) would have been the hardest part, but actually, that's only where it starts and the holds more or less end.
What comes next are slopers (no holds) and it's all about slapping and looking for the best friction.
This turned out to be a proper fight and I was running out of time.
I fought the fight and I won ... this time ...
When I looked at it, it looked so easy and thoughts like "I'm gonna flash this so hard" went through my mind.
But then I was reminded by the 'Fontainebleauness' to take a step back, retract those thoughts and revert into humble-mode!!
Damn this felt hard!
I thought the first move (the jumpstart) would have been the hardest part, but actually, that's only where it starts and the holds more or less end.
What comes next are slopers (no holds) and it's all about slapping and looking for the best friction.
This turned out to be a proper fight and I was running out of time.
I fought the fight and I won ... this time ...
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