Last Friday evening after dinner, I drove to Eléphant as I had finally gathered the courage to try "Coup de Lune". A very popular boulder that I had never dare to try as it looks quite intimidating. I was motivated to find a new priority project in it and only went with the intention to build up confidence.
I was quite quickly able to climb through the first part, but got stuck at the high hold right hand. I expected it to be a relatively good crimp, but it turns out to be a sloper and I couldn't find enough friction to hold it long enough and to feel comfortable on it. It didn't bother me yet, because the tone was set and the problem already looked less intimidating.
The day after, on Saturday, I went back but it didn't take long before the problem was full in the sun. I did make a bit of progress though, so I was happy with the result after the session.
Eager to go back, but with the big heat wave in sight with temperatures going towards 40°C by the end of the week, I didn't want to wait for it to become too hot so went back this evening after dinner. The problem was in the shade, but it was still 31°C in the shade, feeling hot. My skin felt good though and the with only 40% air humidity I wasn't sweating yet. I slowly prepared myself, both physically and mentally and full of confidence, I started my warmup attempt. I cruised through the first part, got the high sloper right hand, and immediately felt that it was good. It somehow stuck. Keeping my calm, I cruised to the next hold, from where it was unknown territory for me, besides the few beta videos that I had watched a week earlier. It all felt perfect somehow and I kept cruising up to the top.
Such a beautiful classic problem!
Wednesday, June 17, 2026
June 17, 2026 - Cruise to the moon.
Fontainebleau - Eléphant - Coup de Lune 7C
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
No comments:
Post a Comment