Maybe it was because I wasn't able to move as freely as I wanted, but I have to admit that I had underestimated it. It took me some time before I had figured out how to do the separate moves given the condition I was in. Once I knew though it went down quickly.
Fontainebleau - Mont Ussy Est - On the Road 7B
On Wednesday, the temperatures had dropped significantly, the sky opened up again, revealing the nice blue that we had to miss for so long, and the wind was coming from the North-East. Perfect ingredients for very good conditions, the kind that I had been waiting for for so long. I was motivated, but couldn't find the right boulder that would fit for the day given the how I still couldn't move as much without pain, despite trying to ignore it. I regretted not daring to try my main project for this Winter, "Tempête Solaire".
The day after, on Thursday, I was determined to go back to "Tempête Solaire", no matter how I felt. I had tried it for three sessions during Summer. It had taken me two sessions to just stick the crux move, the little jump to a very bad sloper, while at the same time releasing the foot and trying to hold the slight swing. On my third session in Summer, I was able to do the whole problem in two overlapping parts, but figured that I would need much better conditions than the Summer morning warmth to be able to stand a chance doing the whole problem. Thursday had exactly the conditions I had been waiting for.
As by coincidence, Steven Demets, an old time friend, was on his way to the South and decided to stop at Bleau for a short day. We met up in Apremont Butte aux Dames and first tried some easier things, as he hadn't climbed for years and is still recovering from a broken arm, before going to "Tempête Solaire". With the pain still bothering me, my main goal for Thursday, was to to at least relearn the crux move and try to make it quite consistent. It went much better than that.
After sticking the crux move a few times separately, I gave it some attempts from the start, and even made it to a new highpoint before slipping off unexpectedly. The body was tired and the pain almost unbearable, so I threw in the towel, knowing that the good conditions would last for a couple of days more.
This morning, I woke up, still in pain, but slightly better. I was determined to go back to "Tempête Solaire" and left around 11h after a short warmup at home. I tried to not set the expectations too high, but I felt nervous while driving there. After yesterday, I knew that the full send would be just a matter of time, having that one good go. Even though I had felt a lot of pain while warming up at home, somehow, it completely went away as soon as I as warmed up trying the crux of "Tempête Solaire". It only took me a handful of attempts to stick it. Not wasting any time or energy, I felt ready, but nervous. I turned on the camera, got ready and set off for my first attempt of the day. The first part up to the crux went smooth, like almost every time by then, I stuck the crux cleanly and threw my foot around the arete hoping to not slip off like yesterday. It stuck. Once I had the higher crimp, I knew that I couldn't fall anymore and went on. I had reached a new highpoint, the top of the boulder. It was quite some time that I felt so much joy and relief after topping out a boulder. The problem that I was secretly hoping for to still finish this year, was done.
The day after, on Thursday, I was determined to go back to "Tempête Solaire", no matter how I felt. I had tried it for three sessions during Summer. It had taken me two sessions to just stick the crux move, the little jump to a very bad sloper, while at the same time releasing the foot and trying to hold the slight swing. On my third session in Summer, I was able to do the whole problem in two overlapping parts, but figured that I would need much better conditions than the Summer morning warmth to be able to stand a chance doing the whole problem. Thursday had exactly the conditions I had been waiting for.
As by coincidence, Steven Demets, an old time friend, was on his way to the South and decided to stop at Bleau for a short day. We met up in Apremont Butte aux Dames and first tried some easier things, as he hadn't climbed for years and is still recovering from a broken arm, before going to "Tempête Solaire". With the pain still bothering me, my main goal for Thursday, was to to at least relearn the crux move and try to make it quite consistent. It went much better than that.
After sticking the crux move a few times separately, I gave it some attempts from the start, and even made it to a new highpoint before slipping off unexpectedly. The body was tired and the pain almost unbearable, so I threw in the towel, knowing that the good conditions would last for a couple of days more.
This morning, I woke up, still in pain, but slightly better. I was determined to go back to "Tempête Solaire" and left around 11h after a short warmup at home. I tried to not set the expectations too high, but I felt nervous while driving there. After yesterday, I knew that the full send would be just a matter of time, having that one good go. Even though I had felt a lot of pain while warming up at home, somehow, it completely went away as soon as I as warmed up trying the crux of "Tempête Solaire". It only took me a handful of attempts to stick it. Not wasting any time or energy, I felt ready, but nervous. I turned on the camera, got ready and set off for my first attempt of the day. The first part up to the crux went smooth, like almost every time by then, I stuck the crux cleanly and threw my foot around the arete hoping to not slip off like yesterday. It stuck. Once I had the higher crimp, I knew that I couldn't fall anymore and went on. I had reached a new highpoint, the top of the boulder. It was quite some time that I felt so much joy and relief after topping out a boulder. The problem that I was secretly hoping for to still finish this year, was done.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Butte aux Dames - Tempête Solaire 8A(7C+)
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