December 13, 2025 - Bleau is where my heart is.

The weather and climbing conditions have been very bad for at least a month, and the only few days that were climbable, happened to e during weekdays when I had to work. Even though it's part of the game, especially in this season, it had started to weigh down on my morale. I even went climbing indoors, something that I hadn't done for about five years, not counting the times when I climbed on my 35 degree home boulder wall in my barn. To keep busy and prepare myself for the first day where it would be possible to go try "Bleau's Heart (direct)" again, I had set the low crux of it as best as I could remember, on my home wall and had come to quite consistently doing the move.
This morning when I woke up, there was a dense fog, but my sandstone terrace was dry, and it looked like there might be a possibility to climb. Not expecting much, except for bad conditions, I decide to go to "Bleau's Heart", hoping to at least practice parts of the problem. I only took one crashpad as it didn't seem to make sense to carry a second one without knowing how the rock would feel. 
To my pleasant surprise, the boulder was dry and the fog was much less dense near the bottom of the hill, where the boulder is. I figured that doing some moves would at least be possible. I warmed up a bit and was able to repeat the second part of "Bleau's Heart" quickly. Strangely enough, the friction even felt very good. Looking at the crux move I realized that the 'copy' that I had set in my barn was much less hard than the real thing, but after only a few attempts, I was able to stick it after all. The whole problem suddenly was a real possibility and I decided to take a short rest while walking back to the car to get a second crashpad. I wanted to be able to climb without distractions or worrying about falling when I wanted to start doing real attempts again. Having the experience from a few months ago, I knew that missing the low crux move had a high potential of falling straight on the back, and even the last part, when the friction is less still has chance to fall off.
Back at the boulder with the second crashpad, I felt quite relaxed, I didn't have any so-called 'sending stress'. To make to keep as much friction as possible for the last part, I put on a base layer of liquid chalk from Chalk Rebels. I didn't want to fall off the very last move like last time. Still relaxed, without any real expectations for my first attempt of the day, I started climbing, stuck the crux move perfectly and kept calm while I executed the next moves, I knew that I could this part as long as I didn't loose the friction. I was flowing through the problem, had a minor fear of slipping off the last move, but it stuck and I was able to top out "Bleau's Heart (direct)". A true morale boost!

Fontainebleau - Petit Rempart - Bleau's Heart (direct) 7C