July 05, 2025 - No love at first sight.

The first time that I was in Mont Ussy many many years ago, I honestly wasn't really impressed by the massive crack of "Amour Noir". It definitely wasn't love at first sight. Hey, I probably didn't even realize that there was a problem going through it. Even later, when I certainly knew about the line, it didn't attract me, because it looked impossible and I didn't know at all what crack climbing is all about. It was only a few years ago, when I briefly tried the crack of "Pure Line" in Rocher de Télégraphe, that I realized how difficult it actually is when you don't have the experience. I couldn't even link two moves in a row, and it was since that day that I truly learned to appreciate and respect the climbers that are into crack climbing. It definitely didn't feel as straight forward as I expected it to be. It was also since then that I played with the idea of trying "Amour Noir" one day, even though being a totally different crack than "Pure Line" and requiring a totally different approach.
The good moment never came to me, but finally a few days ago, I agreed with Olaf to go try it today. I didn't expect too much of it, but I was eager to step in and feel what the moves are like. I did watch several videos, and the moves looked kind of obvious.

On my first attempt in "Amour Noir" this morning, I was able to do a few moves through the crack, but fell off after only a little more than 1 meter, but it felt like I had done 10. It surely felt more exhausting than I expected, and for a moment it felt like it would be impossible because I would have to do about 3 meters more before getting to the first normal hold.
As the moves through the crack are quite repetitive, I knew I just had to give it all to be able to stand a chance. I decided to turn on the camera, just in case I would get far enough to make a chance for topping out, ruling out the possibility wanting to jump off to turn it on and start all over.
I started my second attempt without real expectations besides trying to get as far as I could. I didn't expect at all to be able to slowly work my way through the first part, but I did. Now I had to find a way to get completely into the crack and find my way out through to the top.
After a short struggle, I got in thanks to Olaf's encouragements, and listened to him when he told me I could take a rest where I was. It was easier said than done, but it worked. However, I was in there, looking for a way out, but couldn't turn my head anymore. I was definitely out of my comfort zone, but stayed calm and looked for options. Being able to lean back again after a while, I could turn my head again and found the best hold to pull myself out at the top, somewhat desperate, but it worked. Hearing Olaf's and Noah's shouts of encouragement, motivated me to give it one last push and then, there I was, out of the crack and on the top of the boulder.
I was scratched, bruised and completely exhausted, but relieved. It was truly a great experience climbing this nice crack line.

Fontainebleau - Mont Ussy - Amour Noir 7B+