Below, a video with some of my best attempts on Friday, that I posted on Instagram.
Yesterday, I went back to "Day of Tentacle", this time joined by the good company of Olaf (Deppe), and I had again a few very good attempts, one of which where I couldn't have been closer to topping out, but still fell off due to a bad desperate move at the very end. Unfortunately, my left hamstring gave me a severe warning to stop trying, it had had enough for that day.
I didn't mind it very much though and will be glad to come back to this quiet spot as soon as my hamstring allows me to. Hopefully again in the good company of Olaf.
This morning I met Olaf at Rocher de Télégraphe. We both felt quite tired and both were suffering from a minor injury in our left leg. Me, my hamstring, and Olaf at the back of his knee. I didn't expect much of the session, and mainly wanted to see what "Casser du Sucre" was about.
Opened many years ago, but not having a single registered repetition, it was all mossed over again, so I warmed up with brushing the whole problem again, watching a new line being born, "Casser du Sucre (gauche)". A very logical line, starting with a sitstart from the ground, on the left, with two fairly good crimps. From there, take a tiny sharp crimp left hand, make a big move to the right, to another small crimp and top out in "Casser du Sucre". This was before I realized that "Casser du Sucre" starts more to the right under the overhang, crouched and with one knee on the ground.
I didn't mind it very much though and will be glad to come back to this quiet spot as soon as my hamstring allows me to. Hopefully again in the good company of Olaf.
This morning I met Olaf at Rocher de Télégraphe. We both felt quite tired and both were suffering from a minor injury in our left leg. Me, my hamstring, and Olaf at the back of his knee. I didn't expect much of the session, and mainly wanted to see what "Casser du Sucre" was about.
Opened many years ago, but not having a single registered repetition, it was all mossed over again, so I warmed up with brushing the whole problem again, watching a new line being born, "Casser du Sucre (gauche)". A very logical line, starting with a sitstart from the ground, on the left, with two fairly good crimps. From there, take a tiny sharp crimp left hand, make a big move to the right, to another small crimp and top out in "Casser du Sucre". This was before I realized that "Casser du Sucre" starts more to the right under the overhang, crouched and with one knee on the ground.
Fontainebleau - Rocher du Télégraphe - Casser du Sucre (gauche) 7B+(7B)
Olaf was trying "Nouveaux Horizons", a traverse on slopers on the other side of the boulder. I joined him and quite easily flashed it.
Fontainebleau - Rocher du Télégraphe - Nouveaux Horizons 7A(6C+)
While Olaf was trying "Nouveaux Horizons", I had a better look at the description of "Casser du Sucre", and it was then that I realized how it actually starts. It looked quite hard, but I was able to do first and hardest move immediately. I turned on the camera and sent it right after. This honestly felt less hard than what I done earlier and is not more than 7B in my opinion.
Nevertheless, both the direct and left versions are pretty nice and I had a fun time with Olaf.
Nevertheless, both the direct and left versions are pretty nice and I had a fun time with Olaf.
Fontainebleau - Rocher du Télégraphe - Casser du Sucre 7B+(7B)
I watched Olaf unfortunately fall off "Nouveaux Horizons" a few times, even though he normally cruises through the move where he always fell, when doing it separately. I had to leave , but I'm sure he was still going to do it. It turned out to be a good session after all.
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