Saturday, November 30, 2024

November 30, 2024 - Thumbed up.

The morning started very promising with the sun already out early, but somehow, by the time I left for climbing at around 10h, a dense fog had formed and blocked out the sun completely. I was on my once again to hopefully try "Contrôle A", but once again, even though the top was dry this time, the part to the left of the arete was damp. With the fog, I didn't bother waiting and hoping for it potentially get better, so I reverted to plan B and drove to Buthiers Ouest to check out "Pouce Doudoud", another one of Manuel's (Marqués) new boulders in that small sector that I started trying after doing "Synchronicité" two weeks ago. To my pleasant surprise, it was completely dry and in noticeably good conditions too.  Two weeks ago, I could all moves, except for the last one, a huge dynamic move from a terrible sloper left hand and a weird pinch-like hold right hand, where placing the thumb correctly is key to holding on. 
After a short period of warming up in the moves, I got to the same point as last time, starting from two moves in, and always falling off the last one. I did start cruising through the first part, which allowed me to take slightly more time adjusting my body position for the last move and progressed steadily, coming closer to sticking it each time. Then finally, after again a very minor adjustment, I stuck it. Having started from two moves in, I jumped off and setup the camera for the real deal from the actual start.
Still being only 1°C at that moment, adding those two additional moves at the start made my fingers feel a little more numb by the time I arrived at the last one, which didn't make convenient to repeat it. I kept the focus though, and after a few attempts more, I finally made my way from the start to the top, with frozen toes and fingers, but I made it.
A really nice problem with great moves. Four stars for sure and a thumbs up!

Fontainebleau - Buthiers Ouest - Pouce Doudou 7B+

No comments:

Post a Comment