Last Tuesday evening after work I repeated the problem next to "Sale Mioche" in Roche aux Sabots. I had done it a first time thirteen years ago, before I even had a camera, the same day that I did "Sale Mioche". It was undocumented back then, but as I didn't even had to clean anything, I figured that this very logical line must have been done before by someone. I was gladly surprised that I saw it being published on bleau.info two weeks ago. Theo (Konstantakopoulos) had rediscovered it and named it "Sale Galoche (assis)".
When I went to repeat it last Tuesday, I did it on my first attempt. Is that what they call a 'retro flash' ?
Fontainebleau - Roche aux Sabots - Sale Galoche (assis) 6C+(7A)
This morning, after an apparent rainy night, everything was wet and it made no sense to leave early, which was a good thing, because I had to pick my oldest son at the train station at 11h.
Around that time though, the sun came out and it looked like there was going to be some potential for climbing. Aiming for something quick drying, I went to Maunoury and walked straight to the far end on the top of the hill. Almost everything lower down the hill was still wet, but "Microclimat" was perfectly dry. It was as if there was a micro climate around that boulder.
I had already spent two short sessions trying "Microclimat", and as I never managed to do a first move, I kind of had given up on it. When I saw a video of someone doing it using a heelhook on the right, it had drawn my attention again, only to get disillusioned almost immediately again. There was no way that I could place a heelhook and reach the starting holds. Looking up the measurements of the climber in the video, I soon realized why. He is thirteen centimeters taller than me and had a six centimeters longer arm span.
As I was there again, I didn't let it get to me and managed to find a way using a bad toehook instead of the heel, but the few other moves still gave me a very hard time. Quite some time later, I had finally done each move separately and surprisingly only needed two attempts as soon as I turned on the camera. Always fun to get away with a problem that I had already given up on. Definitely a good 7B+ with my height and span.
Around that time though, the sun came out and it looked like there was going to be some potential for climbing. Aiming for something quick drying, I went to Maunoury and walked straight to the far end on the top of the hill. Almost everything lower down the hill was still wet, but "Microclimat" was perfectly dry. It was as if there was a micro climate around that boulder.
I had already spent two short sessions trying "Microclimat", and as I never managed to do a first move, I kind of had given up on it. When I saw a video of someone doing it using a heelhook on the right, it had drawn my attention again, only to get disillusioned almost immediately again. There was no way that I could place a heelhook and reach the starting holds. Looking up the measurements of the climber in the video, I soon realized why. He is thirteen centimeters taller than me and had a six centimeters longer arm span.
As I was there again, I didn't let it get to me and managed to find a way using a bad toehook instead of the heel, but the few other moves still gave me a very hard time. Quite some time later, I had finally done each move separately and surprisingly only needed two attempts as soon as I turned on the camera. Always fun to get away with a problem that I had already given up on. Definitely a good 7B+ with my height and span.
Fontainebleau - Maunoury - Microclimat 7B+(7B)
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