Last Sunday, I finally went to the boulder to give it a try and, to be honest, the far move to the crimp under the roof did really look impossible. Even after I tried it a few times, it still looked impossible. Nevertheless, I didn't give up and after a while I started to change my mind and a while later, I was able to stick it. After that move, your body is under a constant tension and it's still a couple of moves in that position to go to the end. Due to rain, I had to let it go, but I was determined to go back.
After a short warmup this morning, I focused on the move under the roof, and immediately after I was able to do it, I turned on the camera and started giving attempts from the start. Much faster than expected, I was able to finish it.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Mare aux Biches - Un Ch'ti Délire 7C(7B+)
I didn't have much time left anymore, but still got away with a flash of "Déserteur (prolongé)".
Fontainebleau - Apremont Mare aux Biches - Déserteur (prolongé) 7A
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