April 23, 2024 - Let there be light.

Even though it sometimes goes unnoticed these past few weeks, Spring has started more than a month ago, and the days are slowly getting longer with daylight. It allows for some short sessions after dinner, just like today when I decided at the very last moment to go Franchard Isatis and try "Le Lot de Boudins", a classic problem that I never really gave a chance or even tried because it looks so much my anti-style. Small crimps and depending a lot on heelhooks. Nevertheless, I took my youngest son, Noah, with me and set off. 
The beginning of the oh so popular area was quite crowded for an evening, but as I walked on we soon found ourselves alone, until we arrived at the boulder itself. Someone was trying "Le Lot de Boudins". Luckily (for me) they were about to leave, but I used the occasion to ask them for some valuable beta and what the hardest part was. After they informed me, I worked for about five minutes trying the moves of the crux, which went surprisingly well, I decided immediately to attempt from the start before splitting my fingers open on the tiny crimps.
My first attempt was quite good, but as I forgot to move my left heelhook closer, I had to step off. 
The other climbers were leaving and them packing up allowed, or forced, me to take a short break. As soon as they were gone, I started my second attempt, thought of moving my left heel closer, was able to grab the good pocket, almost came off when releasing my left foot, but was able to hang on and work my way to the end. I had never expected to send "Le Lot de Boudins" so fast, but my fingertips of which two had started to split, were happy with that. So was I, to be honest.

Fontainebleau - Franchard Isatis - Le Lot de Boudins 7C(7B+)