Seeing that two new problems in Apremont Butte aux Dames had been published on bleau.info yesterday, seemed like a perfect coincidence.
Looking at the pictures, they seemed to be in my style. Short and explosive, compression, slopers, reachy moves, and on top of all that, right next to the parking and only a five minute detour on my way home.
The first one, "La Renverse (assis)" didn't take me very long.
Stick a far bad sloper with the right hand, throw the left heel, hope the right hand will stick long enough on that bad sloper to do the next far dynamic move left hand to a good jug.
If all goes well, you end up hanging on the jug and climb out in "La Renverse", a 5th degree problem.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Butte aux Dames - La Renverse (assis) 7B(7B+)
At only 20m from there, I found "Tempête Magnétique" somewhat hidden between other small boulders, but upon inspection it looked to be much nicer than at first sight.
A very small boulder with a bad landing and desperate slopers and a tiny slopey crimp as a key hold.
It really felt like it was made for me somehow and in a way, I surprised myself being so motivated for such a small boulder.
In Dutch we have a saying for that, which roughly translated says that he who doesn't honour the small is not worthy the tall or something like that.
The slopers were really bad and I feared that tiny crimp, but after each attempt, I trusted it more until it nearly became a routine. Then suddenly it all clicked and I topped out.
A very small boulder with a bad landing and desperate slopers and a tiny slopey crimp as a key hold.
It really felt like it was made for me somehow and in a way, I surprised myself being so motivated for such a small boulder.
In Dutch we have a saying for that, which roughly translated says that he who doesn't honour the small is not worthy the tall or something like that.
The slopers were really bad and I feared that tiny crimp, but after each attempt, I trusted it more until it nearly became a routine. Then suddenly it all clicked and I topped out.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Butte aux Dames - Tempête Magnétique 7C+(7C)
It took a while to kick in what I just did, when I finally topped out and packed my stuff, but while walking back and standing high on the Butte aux Dames, I felt like the king of the hill.
It was only for a moment, but at least it's one that they can't take away anymore.
Alone on the top of Apremont Butte aux Dames, right next to the parking.
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