I was surprised to see that the big parking of the Buvette in Barbizon was still nearly empty at 10h30 this morning. Either way, I didn't expect to see many climbers where I was going.
There are not many climbable boulders in Apremont Buvette, and mostly slow drying, but they are beauties. It makes me wonder they only have a handful registered repetitions.
One of these beauties is the boulder with "Polêmikôs", of which I had done the easier right exit two and a half years ago. As the left exit on bad slopers looked too hard at that time, I hadn't bothered trying it, but it never left my mind.
I took my time working out the moves, and managed to send "Polêmikôs (gauche)" about half an hour later.
A great line that honestly felt more like a hard 7B.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Buvette - Polêmikôs (gauche) 7B(7A+)
At about 50m to the left of "Polêmikôs" and a bit higher up, somewhat hidden next to the blue path, I saw "La Manta" for the first time. Again a beauty!
This beautiful prow has quite an exposed landing though and being on my own I hesitated to try it for a minute, but in the end, I'm glad that I did.
Working out the moves one by one slowly built up my confidence and as soon I could link everything, I sat down for a real attempt.
I smoothly climbed my way through the physical first part, stayed calm for the second part, but failed on the last move and had a near miss with the boulder below me. However, the big scrape wound on my back did make me sing in the shower this evening. It could have been worse though.
Having given almost everything on that attempt and to get my senses back, I needed a short break and sent it right after.
Hard for 7B+ and maybe flirting a bit with 7C according to me. In any case, this is truly a masterpiece! A real hidden in plain sight gem.
This beautiful prow has quite an exposed landing though and being on my own I hesitated to try it for a minute, but in the end, I'm glad that I did.
The sketchy landing under "La Manta".
Working out the moves one by one slowly built up my confidence and as soon I could link everything, I sat down for a real attempt.
I smoothly climbed my way through the physical first part, stayed calm for the second part, but failed on the last move and had a near miss with the boulder below me. However, the big scrape wound on my back did make me sing in the shower this evening. It could have been worse though.
Having given almost everything on that attempt and to get my senses back, I needed a short break and sent it right after.
Hard for 7B+ and maybe flirting a bit with 7C according to me. In any case, this is truly a masterpiece! A real hidden in plain sight gem.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Buvette - La Manta 7B+(7B)
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