October 20, 2018 - The coincidental wait.

I had a plan when I parked for Apremont Désert late this morning. I wanted to be alone and try the right exit of "La Corne de Rhino".
Coincidence wanted that "La Corne de Rhino (droite)" fulfilled to both of my wishes, so I knew where to go. On top of that, even though the air was still a bit damp in the forest, I knew that the boulder was in the open and would be nicely in the sun.
Apparently, coincidence also wanted that exactly that boulder was still in the shade when I arrived at it at 11h.
One high tree at about 50m was exactly where the low sun would shed its light on the boulder and covered it in shade.
The bad pinch and slopers depend a lot on friction but they still felt damp, so I had to wait for the sun to pass the tree and and make them dry.

The tree.

In total, I only had to wait for about half an hour but it felt like ages. I couldn't even play a game on my phone as I wanted to preserve the battery for using it as second camera.

Finally, when it was good to go, the conditions didn't feel good enough yet, but luckily they got better after every try and careful brushing in between.

I still remembered the moves very well from the original exit to the left, so it didn't take me long to find my way through them.

Getting through the right exit was another story though and I had to go deep to finally finish it off.

Grade wise this exit should be easier than the original, but even though I already found that version already hard for 7B+, the right exit that is supposed to be 7B, felt quite a bit harder.

In my opinion, this is more like a 7C compared to the left exit.

All in all, it took me less than the wait, but it was totally worth it!

**EDIT** Upgraded to 7B+(7B) now **EDIT**

Fontainebleau - Apremont Désert - La Corne de Rhino (droite) 7B+(7B)

I didn't want to leave yet, but didn't have too much energy left and didn't feel like being around other people in the main area, so I went to the top of the hill, where I knew of an isolated small roof with a soft 7A on it, "Le Diable de Tasmanie".

It took me only a handful of tries, but that isolated boulder is almost never being climbed, so the slopers were mossy and needed more force applied to them than when clean.
Felt closer to 7A than 6C+, but might be different when completely clean.
Fun problem.

Fontainebleau - Apremont Désert - Le Diable de Tasmanie 6C+(7A)