Wednesday, July 25, 2018

July 25, 2018 - Into space.

Even though it was still early in the morning when I was walking towards Mont Aigu today, the temperature rose already way above 20°C. It promised to be another extremely hot day, but I was hoping to have some advantage from the relative coolness of the morning.
I had only one goal for today, and it was "Cosmos", a beautiful overhang with a hard mantle to finish.
At least three sessions I had already spent on it, but each time it was in the Winter time. The East facing overhang doesn't get any direct sun in that season, so the slow drying holds always felt damp.

Last session, I was about to finish it, but Bram (Honorez) watched me losing balance while almost completely standing up, and I fell out. I couldn't find enough strength anymore to give it another go back then, but I was determined to finish it on my next session, being today.

It was the first time that the starting holds and those under the overhang were perfectly dry, and I immediately knew that a successful attempt would be for any time, as long as I kept calm and wouldn't be overwhelmed with so called 'sending stress'.
On my second attempt today, I again fell off while almost standing up, but remained focussed on the next and finally sent this beautiful gem.

Fontainebleau - Mont Aigu - Cosmos 7B




It was already getting too warm, but I still managed to do the North faced "Supernova" as a bonus.
The face of that boulder is now completely brushed but I'm not sure that this is the reason why it felt like a 7B at most.
A fun dyno, but quite a weird position to jump from and an uncommon move.

Fontainebleau - Mont Aigu - Supernova 7B+


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