July 24, 2018 - Off the list.

At 9h this morning, it felt already as hot as the hottest moment on the previous days.
The heat wave, 'canicule' as they call it here in France, has officially started and will last for a few more days at least.
The plan was to find some morning shade in Rocher des Demoiselles, and I had prepared a small list of problems that I wanted to try. Some more than others, but all on the list.
The problem in my case with such a list is that I sometimes don't put enough effort in a particular problem, but rather give up quickly as soon as I'm stuck somewhere so I could see and try the next problem on the list. In the worst case though, it gives me an idea of what try and what not on my next visit in the area.
Already when walking towards the first problems, I figured that today would be rather be one of trying a lot on many different problems in a short time. A time that was rapidly decreasing with the fast increase of burning heat.

Strangely enough, I had forgotten to put "Karaté Kid" on the list, but on the other hand, it was not a problem that I didn't try before. My last session on it was in January 2017, but it ended abruptly with a bad fall. Not from high, but one that did give a slight headache for a moment. The video below starts with the fall I made back then.
This time though, the crimps under the roof were finally completely dry and in actual good climbing condition as opposed to all previous times I tried it, and it turned out to be what I needed.
Finally finished off this beauty with some great moves!

Fontainebleau - Rocher des Demoiselles - Karaté Kid 7A+(7B)

It had become way too hot by now, but on my way down the hill towards the path, I had a look at "Le Plat du Chef (assis)", a small overhang that is oriented towards the North and so slow drying that I had never seen it dry.
It apparently takes quite a long period of drought, because for the very first time, I found also this one to be completely dry.
"Le Plat du Chef (assis)" wasn't on my list neither, but the fact that the overhang provided some cooling shadow convinced me to unpack and take my chances on it.

My first attempts were miserable. Only two moves, but a damn hard first one.
After some persistence, I managed tick this one off my list too, even though it wasn't on it in the first place.
Nicer problem than it seems!

Fontainebleau - Rocher des Demoiselles - Le Plat du Chef (assis) 7A+

While walking back to the car, I used some sticks to try and catch some flies, but even though I had just done "Karaté Kid", I definitely am not one, because not a single fly was caught.