Monday, June 5, 2017

June 05, 2017 - Surf's up!

I have been only a few times in Apremont Bizons and had not yet seen the few spread out boulders that were opened in 2013.
One of these boulders is the one with "Le Surfeur d'Argent", a beautiful looking half hanging boulder at about 150m from blue n°12 according to the published mini topo.
The ferns were already over 2m high there and what started with carefully trying to slalom in between them to avoid touching them too much, became a not giving a fuck anymore straight forward march, trying to find the boulder, thinking that the amount of ticks I will probably cary with me is a problem for later.
It was hard to see through them and the boulder could be at any time at only 5m away, but I wouldn't even be able to see it anyway.

After a long search, I gave up and tried to find out what the shortest way to the main area would be.
I saw a small sector of low boulders and decided to have one last look in the descent behind them.
The boulder was right there! I could finally start climbing.

I started with working out "Silver Héraut", which turns out to have a very hard shoulder move to a far bidoigt left hand.
Even after fixing the bidoigt, you still need to move very subtle to not loose the balance.
A great line!

Fontainebleau - Apremont Bizons - Silver Héraut 7B




"Le Surfeur d'Argent" starts the same, but instead of going for the bidoigt on the left, you have to match both hands on the slopey rail and slap to a bad sloper far right.
It's hard on compression at the end of this version, but it fits more my style.
I didn't find this harder than "Silver Héraut", but this probably depends on your height.
Another great line and definitely worth the search.

Fontainebleau - Apremont Bizons - Le Surfeur d'Argent 7B+




I didn't discover any tick so far!

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