Besides the lonely unrepeated wall up all the way up on the hill, there's only one 7A left that I hadn't done yet in the small area.
It was "Coin de Paradis", a small roof with a crack and a big move in the end (at least for the method that I know now).
It's a not so common style of climb for the area and even though I first started trying it five years ago, when we first moved here, I had never found my way up.
Somehow I had never felt really comfortable in it and I always ended up stuck at the edge of the roof, not knowing what to do next. No matter what I tried, the holds were always too far away.
Until I saw a video of Cyrille (Duval) climbing it with a big dyno to a small jug in the upper edge of the roof.
Even with the beta in my head, it took me a while to feel enough at ease in the roof to try the jump.
Slowly I started to feel more comfortable and with every try I got closer to the final jug... and then I made a beginners fault.
I made it to the jug but with my fingers just barely over the edge of it I should have let go. Instead, I held on, started swinging, lost grip on the jug and fell backwards down to the ground.
Luckily it was on the crashpad, but it was a high fall for the body to take.
I didn't cry though, but picked myself up, tried again and topped it out.
It's not because of the fall, but this felt hard for the grade.
A great and special problem though!
Fontainebleau - Rocher Guichot - Coin de Paradis 7A
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