Sunday, March 26, 2017

March 26, 2017 - Shooting with stars.

I had agreed with Jan (Gorrebeeck) and Gina to back to Rocher de Milly today to avoid the big crowds.
Looking at the number of cars already present on the various parkings that I passed on my way, they surely were present.
Jan and I wanted to try "Le Dolmen du Divin", but we kept on walking further to the end of Rocher de Milly Est to warm up in some easier boulders.

It's at least a half an hour walk on a long flat straight path that doesn't seem to end.
The nice views and the beauty of the area, however, all make it totally worth it. Especially the very nice boulders that we found in the end.
After walking for such a long time and crawling over and between boulders, trees and bushes, we finally found a nice a spot to lay our crashpads down.

The small roof of "Et Talon Nez" has positive holds and seemed liked an ideal warmup.
Jan almost sent it on his flash attempt, but just fell of the last move due to bad foot placement.
He did on his second attempt after a short rest.
The many moves did turn out to be quite physical after all.
I needed some more attempts to link all the moves together but found my way up after all.

This beautiful small roof with a nearly perfect line received five stars from me on bleau.info.

EDIT - apparently it was "Et Talon Nez (gauche)" that we did. I stand by the stars given and also the grade, because this felt like a good 7A to me!

Fontainebleau - Rocher de Milly Est - Et Talon Nez (gauche) 6C+




Before we found "Et Talon Nez", we had passed by the prow of "Geka", which looked beautiful too, but too hard to warm up with.
Now that our fingers, skin and mind were ready, it was a good moment to move our gear 30m further to "Geka".

After closer inspection, and some curious tries, we had to conclude that it was at least as hard as we had expected, maybe even harder.
Every move is a hard compression move and really physical!
Jan has a thing with brushing and keeping holds in good condition though, and after a while some of the moves that were deemed too hard at first, started to work out.
This got us motivated but in the end it must have taken us at least two hours figuring out the best method until I was able to top out.

Jan had some trouble with the far toehook on the right, but when using my right shoe it started to work out too.
We were running out of time and Jan started to feel worn out, but encouraged by Gina and I, he also topped out on his promised last attempt of the day.

"Geka" felt like a masterpiece and also received the full five stars from me on bleau.info.

Fontainebleau - Rocher de Milly Est - Geka 7B(7A+)




Then came the long walk back to the car again ...

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