I wanted to check the conditions of "Télex" and "Télex (gauche)". The boulder takes a lot of shade, so my chances were low.
While I was inspecting the boulder, I noticed two climbers trying "Coup de Tonnerre" a bit higher up the hill.
The amount of hair they carried and their accent quickly revealed that it were Adriaan (Gabriels) and Joris (Robyn).
"Télex" was in a too bad condition anyway, so I hung around with them and watched Adriaan finish "Coup de Tonnerre", soon followed by Joris with "Coup de Tonnerre (assis)".
I didn't have any further plan concerning where to go and what to try, so I decided to go with them to "Maunoury". They were there yesterday and were forced by the upcoming dark to leave "Pars Pro Toto (gauche)" unfinished.
I had never noticed that problem before and it looked quite nice, so I was up for it.
Joris explained me the beta, but there was one small pinch that I couldn't hold on to long enough to move.
Thanks to my long arms I have a big reach and I was able to reach for a sloper higher up which suited me better.
As soon as I had that move figured out, I was able to send "Pars Pro Toto (gauche)", on my second attempt coming from the start.
Joris needed some more tries and ended up finishing it using his original beta.
Fontainebleau - Maunoury - Pars Pro Toto (gauche) 7B
While Adriaan continued working in "Pars Pro Toto (gauche)", Joris showed me "Waimea (droite)" nearby.
A very high arete with some beautiful moves when starting in the center of the boulder.
Again, Joris gave me some beta, I ended up using my own, and sent it on my second attempt.
Thanks to my big reach I didn't have any problem reaching the left arete.
Top class problem that I would have never tried without a spotter. The holds up there are jugs, but still ... Thanks for the spot, Joris!
A very high arete with some beautiful moves when starting in the center of the boulder.
Again, Joris gave me some beta, I ended up using my own, and sent it on my second attempt.
Thanks to my big reach I didn't have any problem reaching the left arete.
Top class problem that I would have never tried without a spotter. The holds up there are jugs, but still ... Thanks for the spot, Joris!
Fontainebleau - Maunoury - Waimea (droite) 7A
We watched Adriaan do some really good attempts in "Pars Pro Toto (gauche)", almost every time falling from the last move.
His skin couldn't take of it anymore and had to let it go for today. He will most likely do it upon his next visit in the area.
Another problem that I had never noticed before, was "Le Pétard du Diable", a little bit hidden between some boulders right above "Soupçon".
It looked wet and dirty at first, but the spots (not really holds) that had to be used were in good enough conditions for some tries.
We all had a long struggle with it and I turned out to be the only one finishing it thanks to my big reach.
This problem is very morpho, but it was fun trying it and ending up with a send after all.
"Le Pétard du Diable" felt hard for the grade and I already mentioned to Joris and Adriaan that it felt more like 7A+ after I did it.
Funny thing is that I noticed on 8a.nu that the opener, Théo Konstantakopoulos, gave it 7A+ on his scorecard there.
His skin couldn't take of it anymore and had to let it go for today. He will most likely do it upon his next visit in the area.
Another problem that I had never noticed before, was "Le Pétard du Diable", a little bit hidden between some boulders right above "Soupçon".
It looked wet and dirty at first, but the spots (not really holds) that had to be used were in good enough conditions for some tries.
We all had a long struggle with it and I turned out to be the only one finishing it thanks to my big reach.
This problem is very morpho, but it was fun trying it and ending up with a send after all.
"Le Pétard du Diable" felt hard for the grade and I already mentioned to Joris and Adriaan that it felt more like 7A+ after I did it.
Funny thing is that I noticed on 8a.nu that the opener, Théo Konstantakopoulos, gave it 7A+ on his scorecard there.
Fontainebleau - Maunoury - Le Pétard du Diable 7A
Not having such a big reach like mine, Adriaan and Joris had to let go of "Le Pétard du Diable" and I called it a day while they were deciding where to go next.
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