All the boulders are on the South face of the hill and completely exposed to the sun.
In the end the heat became unbearable, so I went looking for some shade in some more dense vegetation.
Some problems passed on my way, but I wasn't able to finish any of them, and yes, I use the heat as an excuse. It was simply hot, too hot.
In the end, I did find a nice little roof problem that was all about shade, except for some parts of the outclimb.
Looking at the name of the problem, "70° à l'Ombre", makes me believe that it has been opened on a hot day too.
It's soft for the grade, I did it on my second attempt, and mainly because I made a misjudgement on my flash attempt.
In a way, it would have been totally OK if I would have had to work longer in it. It was nice there in the shade. The mosquitos thought the same though.
Fontainebleau - Jean des Vignes - 70° à l'Ombre 6C+
During my noon session, I briefly tried "La Tempête Divine (assis)", but the prow on bad slopers was completely in the sun and thus simply impossible to hold on to. Even the standstart which is 6C(6C+) didn't work out.
Igor (Depoorter) however sent me a message during the day, saying that he had done "Gorétatov" in this heat, and in the evening he let me know that also "Coup de Force" was in the pocket. In these conditions an extraordinary prestation!! Again, well done, animal!!
In the evening, after diner, I went back to Jean des Vignes to try "La Tempête Divine (assis)" again, but this time in the shade, even though the temperature was still 27°C.
Sorry, Igor, for not letting you know, but I felt like I had to do this on my own. This isolated boulder in the back of Jean des Vignes just asks for it to be climbed alone.
At first when I tried the standstart, I didn't get further than I did at noon, but after slightly changing my method and body position, it suddenly felt possible and a couple of tries later, the standstart was done. All I had to do now was link the moves from the sitstart to it.
At noon, I was able to do all the moves until passed the standstart, but linking it all together seemed to be still a struggle.
On my before last attempt, I had the last hold, but not good enough and fell off. That's when I saw that the skin of my right index finger had become so thin that it even started bleeding.
I knew I had only one attempt left, gave it all I had and ... made it.
Trying this in the evening shade was so much different than my short noon session in full direct sun.
When I arrived back at the car at 20h55, it was still 26°C ... in the shade ...
Igor (Depoorter) however sent me a message during the day, saying that he had done "Gorétatov" in this heat, and in the evening he let me know that also "Coup de Force" was in the pocket. In these conditions an extraordinary prestation!! Again, well done, animal!!
In the evening, after diner, I went back to Jean des Vignes to try "La Tempête Divine (assis)" again, but this time in the shade, even though the temperature was still 27°C.
Sorry, Igor, for not letting you know, but I felt like I had to do this on my own. This isolated boulder in the back of Jean des Vignes just asks for it to be climbed alone.
At first when I tried the standstart, I didn't get further than I did at noon, but after slightly changing my method and body position, it suddenly felt possible and a couple of tries later, the standstart was done. All I had to do now was link the moves from the sitstart to it.
At noon, I was able to do all the moves until passed the standstart, but linking it all together seemed to be still a struggle.
On my before last attempt, I had the last hold, but not good enough and fell off. That's when I saw that the skin of my right index finger had become so thin that it even started bleeding.
I knew I had only one attempt left, gave it all I had and ... made it.
Trying this in the evening shade was so much different than my short noon session in full direct sun.
When I arrived back at the car at 20h55, it was still 26°C ... in the shade ...
Fontainebleau - Jean des Vignes - La Tempête Divine (assis) 7A+
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