About an hour later, we met at the carpark of Le Croix St Jerome, we were going to Gros Sablons. Yes, I know, again a longer than usual walk. Even longer with us going in the wrong direction at some point and walking a part of the "25 Bosses". Not easy with such a big crashpad. There is not always a "Mondo-way" around.
Anyway, we started climbing in "L'Oeil du Cyclone". We both watched some video beta but in the end we decided to do it our own, more logical, less morpho way ... straight up instead of going for the far left sloper first.
It didn't give me too much problems, but Pieter will have to come back for it. He's having lots of problems with his elbows and most likely suffers from a tendinitis.
Fontainebleau - Gros Sablons - L'Oeil du Cyclone 7A
We continued on the "25 Bosses" path to go find the slab of "Casus Belli", something that would give Pieter less pain in the elbows.
But then we noticed the big boulder left of it which I recognised from browsing on bleau.info.
It was the one with "Objectif Lunule (assis)".
We decided to try this first.
The first move is the hardest, followed by an easy part into a slightly harder part with sloper right where you have to be confident for taking the small marbled crimp left hand and use it to get all the way up to the jug.
I did this on my second attempt, Pieter sadly had to give up due to his elbows again. Injuries suck big time!!
We briefly tried "Casus Belli" but this was hurting my leg because of pushing too much on it. Injuries suck big time!!
But then we noticed the big boulder left of it which I recognised from browsing on bleau.info.
It was the one with "Objectif Lunule (assis)".
We decided to try this first.
The first move is the hardest, followed by an easy part into a slightly harder part with sloper right where you have to be confident for taking the small marbled crimp left hand and use it to get all the way up to the jug.
I did this on my second attempt, Pieter sadly had to give up due to his elbows again. Injuries suck big time!!
We briefly tried "Casus Belli" but this was hurting my leg because of pushing too much on it. Injuries suck big time!!
Fontainebleau - Gros Sablons - Objectif Lunule (assis) 7A
Pieter decided to call it a day so we went back to the carpark. He even was so nice to propose to carry my much heavier crashpad because we had to stop every 100m because I couldn't limp my way through anymore.
At the car, I convinced Pieter to still have a quick look at "Haute Trahison" at 50m from the parking.
Those who have the Black Bible from after 2011 might know it already, but it has only been published on bleau.info since a couple of days ago.
Reason for that is, that the opener had done some serious digging to be able to create a new line in the roof that he actually dug out himself. Can you dig that?
It is published now because the huge pit under the boulder has started to look natural after all these years.
The opener, Jean-Jacques Naëls aka Pepito, could have dug a little more because it's hard not to touch the ground while climbing the roof.
After checking out the holds and looking at two other climbers trying it without much success, I started and after a few tries, I fell off on the last move.
A short rest later, I gave it another try and again fell off the same last move.
My arms were pumped and I went home, determined that soon I would come back and probably finish it off quickly when feeling more fresh.
A couple of hours later, after diner, I felt rested. I couldn't wait and went back to "Haute Trahison" to finish it.
Feeling fresh, I only needed one try to make a successful ascent, but I could feel the heartbeat in my fingers after so many moves.
Nice roof, positive holds, great moves, a superbe climb!!
At the car, I convinced Pieter to still have a quick look at "Haute Trahison" at 50m from the parking.
Those who have the Black Bible from after 2011 might know it already, but it has only been published on bleau.info since a couple of days ago.
Reason for that is, that the opener had done some serious digging to be able to create a new line in the roof that he actually dug out himself. Can you dig that?
It is published now because the huge pit under the boulder has started to look natural after all these years.
The opener, Jean-Jacques Naëls aka Pepito, could have dug a little more because it's hard not to touch the ground while climbing the roof.
After checking out the holds and looking at two other climbers trying it without much success, I started and after a few tries, I fell off on the last move.
A short rest later, I gave it another try and again fell off the same last move.
My arms were pumped and I went home, determined that soon I would come back and probably finish it off quickly when feeling more fresh.
A couple of hours later, after diner, I felt rested. I couldn't wait and went back to "Haute Trahison" to finish it.
Feeling fresh, I only needed one try to make a successful ascent, but I could feel the heartbeat in my fingers after so many moves.
Nice roof, positive holds, great moves, a superbe climb!!
Fontainebleau - Rocher des Souris - Haute Trahison 7A(7A+)
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