I went to Mont Simonet again.
Every time I'm there, I always have the impression that the area is totally underestimated. OK, it lies in the shadow of the hugely popular area of l'Eléphant, but still, the amount of climbable boulders and problems are more than enough to be able to spend all day there.
I was there for only a couple of hours, but long enough to climb some very nice problems.
I wanted to warm up in "Le Triathlète" but after a couple of tries, it started raining. Not much, but enough to force me to wrap up my stuff and go for shelter under the big boulder of "Duke Nukem".
In a way, I made a positive out of a negative by using the time needed for the sandstone to dry, to inspect the holds of "La Tortue Lutte (droite)".
As the rain shower was only short, the wind and sunshine after it, dried everything after about 10 minutes, so I didn't have to wait long before I could give it a try.
If it wouldn't have the big boulder in the back, I guess this will be about 7A. Trying to avoid touching the boulder behind you too much, though, requires some extra body tension to add up to the grade.
I had to restart a couple of due to the touching, but made it after all. I would say it's soft for the grade.
Fontainebleau - Mont Simonet - La Tortue Lutte (droite) 7B
Up next was "Duke Nukem".
I enjoyed doing this a lot!
Sitstart with a crimp, far deadpoint move onto a high crimp, prepare for the next move and doing a strange dynamic move up to a jug-ish hold far left, hold onto it for dear life and hope you keep sticking both holds until the foot is on the start crimp. From then on it's quite safe to say it's done.
Two hard moves to start and then an easier part up. Four stars!!
I enjoyed doing this a lot!
Sitstart with a crimp, far deadpoint move onto a high crimp, prepare for the next move and doing a strange dynamic move up to a jug-ish hold far left, hold onto it for dear life and hope you keep sticking both holds until the foot is on the start crimp. From then on it's quite safe to say it's done.
Two hard moves to start and then an easier part up. Four stars!!
Fontainebleau - Mont Simonet - Duke Nukem 7A+
While looking for the next problem, there were a few contenders but in the end I chose "Colorado Provençal" on the backside of the boulder of "Motivé".
With only two publicly registered repeats, obviously not the most popular problem of the area, but I wonder why.
For me this was the hardest problem of the day.
It starts under the roof with a horizontal slopey rail with only footholds for the left foot, every time using them for a heelhook.
It took me while before I had figured out how to move and where to reach to be able to come out of the roof.
Once out of the roof the holds become slightly better but it's far from over yet. The mantle into the wall above proved to a small fight on itself.
When I was finally free standing in the wall, I really had to, and wanted to, take my time. I didn't want to fall off here, because I wasn't sure I was going to be able to the first part again.
Luckily resting is easy while standing there so I try regain as much strength possible to climb my way to the top.
Some balance required, foot high, some pulling on sandy slopers and ... yes. Done!
With only two publicly registered repeats, obviously not the most popular problem of the area, but I wonder why.
For me this was the hardest problem of the day.
It starts under the roof with a horizontal slopey rail with only footholds for the left foot, every time using them for a heelhook.
It took me while before I had figured out how to move and where to reach to be able to come out of the roof.
Once out of the roof the holds become slightly better but it's far from over yet. The mantle into the wall above proved to a small fight on itself.
When I was finally free standing in the wall, I really had to, and wanted to, take my time. I didn't want to fall off here, because I wasn't sure I was going to be able to the first part again.
Luckily resting is easy while standing there so I try regain as much strength possible to climb my way to the top.
Some balance required, foot high, some pulling on sandy slopers and ... yes. Done!
Fontainebleau - Mont Simonet - Colorado Provençal 7A+
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